{"id":9788,"date":"2016-07-11T12:00:21","date_gmt":"2016-07-11T10:00:21","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/1001voyagesgourmands.com\/?p=9788"},"modified":"2016-07-11T19:10:52","modified_gmt":"2016-07-11T17:10:52","slug":"salar-de-uyun-nejvetsi-solna-plan","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/1001voyagesgourmands.com\/cs\/salar-de-uyun-nejvetsi-solna-plan\/","title":{"rendered":"Salar de Uyuni: nejv\u011bt\u0161\u00ed soln\u00e1 pl\u00e1\u0148 na sv\u011bt\u011b"},"content":{"rendered":"

Salar de Uyuni je se svou rozlohou 10 582 km\u00b2 nejv\u011bt\u0161\u00ed soln\u00e1 pl\u00e1\u0148 na sv\u011bt\u011b a d\u00edky sv\u00e9 nadmo\u0159sk\u00e9 v\u00fd\u0161ce 3 650 m se tak\u00e9 jedn\u00e1 o nejv\u00fd\u0161e polo\u017eenou solnou pl\u00e1\u0148 na sv\u011bt\u011b, nach\u00e1zej\u00edc\u00ed se na jihoz\u00e1pad\u011b Bol\u00edvie. Kr\u00e1sa surov\u00e9 krajiny d\u011bl\u00e1 ze Salaru jednu z nejkr\u00e1sn\u011bj\u0161\u00edch pod\u00edvan\u00fdch v Ji\u017en\u00ed Americe a m\u00edsto, kter\u00e9 v\u00e1m vyraz\u00ed dech. Salar de Uyuni je poz\u016fstatkem obrovsk\u00e9ho slan\u00e9ho jezera Lago Minchin z dob pleistoc\u00e9nu a dnes jde o nekone\u010dn\u011b rovnou krajinu pokrytou solnou krustou, na kter\u00e9 se sem tam vyno\u0159\u00fd mal\u00fd ostr\u016fvek. Kilometry rovn\u00e9 b\u00edl\u00e9 krajiny p\u0159ipom\u00ednaj\u00ed za sucha cestu na severn\u00ed p\u00f3l a pokud se tam vyd\u00e1te po de\u0161ti, m\u016f\u017eete tu za\u017e\u00edt nejv\u011bt\u0161\u00ed p\u0159\u00edrodn\u00ed zrcadlo na sv\u011bt\u011b, kdy se obloha odr\u00e1\u017e\u00ed ve vrstv\u011b vody na soln\u00e9m povrchu. Jak vypadal prvn\u00ed den na\u0161eho t\u0159\u00eddenn\u00edho v\u00fdletu s agenturou Salt Andes Expedition v listopadu 2015, a co skr\u00fdv\u00e1 magick\u00fd Salar de Uyuni, se do\u010dtete v tomto \u010dl\u00e1nku. Pokud hled\u00e1te praktick\u00e9 informace o tom, jak se tam dostat, kdy  jet, co s sebou, jak si vybrat agenturu a na co si d\u00e1t pozor, p\u0159e\u010dt\u011bte si m\u00e9ho Rychl\u00e9ho pr\u016fvodce v\u00fdlety na bolivijsk\u00fd Salar<\/a><\/strong>.<\/p>\n

\"Salar<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"Jak<\/div>\n

P\u0159\u00edjezd od Uyuni<\/h2>\n

Po celono\u010dn\u00ed j\u00edzd\u011b autobusem z La Paz jsme v 6 r\u00e1no p\u0159ijeli do Uyuni. V pr\u016fvodci n\u00e1m to naserv\u00edrovali jako p\u0159\u00edjezd do apokalyptick\u00e9 vesnice, ze kter\u00e9 nen\u00ed n\u00e1vratu<\/em>. \u0158\u00edkali jsme si, \u017ee Routard ob\u010das p\u0159eh\u00e1n\u00ed, ale mus\u00edm \u0159\u00edct, \u017ee v 6 hodin r\u00e1no vypad\u00e1 Uyuni jako m\u00edsto, kde se zastavil \u010das. P\u0159edstavte si zch\u00e1tralou vesnici, kde se po lidech slehla zem. B\u011bhem noci tu p\u011bkn\u011b tuhne a to i v l\u00e9t\u011b – Uyuni se toti\u017e nach\u00e1z\u00ed ve v\u00fd\u0161ce 3 650 m nad mo\u0159em. Po p\u0159\u00edjezdu se cel\u00fd rozespal\u00fd autobus vyd\u00e1 do jedin\u00e9 otev\u0159en\u00e9 kav\u00e1rny, kde v\u00e1m za turistick\u00e9 ceny p\u0159iprav\u00ed tepl\u00e9 n\u00e1poje a n\u011bco k sn\u00eddani. Kancel\u00e1\u0159e tour oper\u00e1tor\u016f, kter\u00e9 po\u0159\u00e1daj\u00ed exkurze na Salar, tu otev\u00edraj\u00ed dve\u0159e mezi 8-9. hodinou, a tak si tu lid\u00e9 alespo\u0148 trochu zkr\u00e1t\u00ed \u010dek\u00e1n\u00ed.<\/p>\n

Po sn\u00eddani se vyd\u00e1me se jako prvn\u00ed do Andes Salt Expedition<\/strong><\/a>, kde jsou velice p\u0159\u00edjemn\u00ed a nav\u00edc se tam ve stejn\u00fd \u010das uk\u00e1\u017eou lid\u00e9, se kter\u00fdma jsme se sezn\u00e1mili ji\u017e v autobusu z La Paz. Jeden francouzsk\u00fd p\u00e1r Helene a Pierre, jeden Angli\u010dan \u017eij\u00edc\u00ed v Bruselu a nakonec p\u0159ijde je\u0161t\u011b jedna Portugalka, kter\u00e1 si v\u00fdlet zarezervovala p\u0159es internet. A tak utvo\u0159\u00edme \u0161estici a fajn partu pro n\u00e1\u0161 t\u0159\u00eddenn\u00ed v\u00fdlet na Salar a Sud-L\u00edpez.<\/p>\n

N\u00e1\u0161 pr\u016fvodce, \u0159idi\u010d, mechanik, kucha\u0159 a b\u016fh v\u00ed co je\u0161t\u011b, prost\u011b Lorenzo<\/strong>, p\u0159ijel asi v 10:30 v \u010derven\u00e9m d\u017e\u00edpu, na kter\u00fd jsme na st\u0159echu nalo\u017eili b\u00e1gly, vt\u011bsnali se dovnit\u0159 a vydali se sm\u011brem h\u0159bitov vlak\u016f. Zd\u00e1l se b\u00fdt pohod\u00e1\u0159em, kter\u00fd se po\u0159\u00e1d usm\u00edval a ob\u010das i po\u0159\u00e1dn\u011b sm\u00e1l a to zejm\u00e9na, kdy\u017e mu nikdo nerozum\u011bl nebo kdy\u017e vypustil ducha a my vzadu v aut\u011b padali om\u00e1meni smradem. Lorenzo m\u011bl na CD\u010dku v\u00fdb\u011br 7-10 let star\u00fdch disko hit\u016f, kter\u00e9 jsme byli nuceni poslouchat dokola cel\u00e9 t\u0159i dny, jeliko\u017e krom\u011b \u0159\u00edzen\u00ed v aut\u011b nic nefungovalo. Jinak byl Lorenzo vynikaj\u00edc\u00ed pr\u016fvodce \u2013 v\u00fdborn\u011b va\u0159il, v\u0161ude n\u00e1m stav\u011bl a m\u011bl s n\u00e1mi ohromnou trp\u011blivost (krom\u011b momentu, kdy n\u00e1s v brzk\u00fdch hodin\u00e1ch tahal z postele a sv\u00edtil ka\u017ed\u00e9mu baterkou do o\u010d\u00ed). \ud83d\ude42<\/p>\n

\"Salar<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Vlakov\u00fd h\u0159bitov (Cementario de trenes)<\/strong><\/h2>\n

Necel\u00e93 km od Uyuni se v rozprost\u00edraj\u00edc\u00ed pou\u0161tn\u00ed krajin\u011b nach\u00e1z\u00ed p\u00e1r zch\u00e1tral\u00fdch a zrezav\u011bl\u00fdch parn\u00edch lokomotiv, kter\u00e9 mezi l\u00e9ty 1930 a 1940 transportovaly vyt\u011b\u017een\u00fd materi\u00e1l do Chile a Braz\u00edlie. Routard to op\u011bt zabil term\u00ednem n\u011bco na zp\u016fsob Mad Max<\/em>. \ud83d\ude42 M\u011b sice n\u011bjak\u00fd h\u0159bitov nezaj\u00edmal, ale lokomotivy jsou dost fotogenick\u00e9, tak po nich turist\u00e9 lezou a r\u016fzn\u011b je prol\u00e9zaj\u00ed a maj\u00ed z toho ohromnou radost a j\u00e1 ji m\u011bla nakonec taky.<\/p>\n

\"Salar\"Salar<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Colchani<\/strong><\/h2>\n

Pokra\u010dujeme do dal\u0161\u00ed vesni\u010dky, kde se zastavil \u010das. Je tu nicm\u00e9n\u011b jak\u00e9si minimuzeum se sochami ze soli a cesta k n\u011bmu je lemov\u00e1na st\u00e1nky prodejc\u016f s ru\u010dn\u011b vyr\u00e1b\u011bn\u00fdmi p\u0159edm\u011bty od oble\u010den\u00ed po mal\u00e9 suven\u00fdry. A tak\u00e9 auta, kter\u00e1 p\u0159ev\u00e1\u017eej\u00ed s\u016fl.<\/p>\n

\"Salar<\/h2>\n

 <\/h2>\n

Soln\u00e1 pl\u00e1\u0148 Salar de Uyuni<\/strong><\/h2>\n

P\u00edse\u010dn\u00e1 krajina se pomalu p\u0159em\u011b\u0148uje na solnou plochu, i kdy\u017e zat\u00edm ne tak \u010dist\u011b b\u00edlou, jak jsme si p\u0159edstavovali. To proto, \u017ee za posledn\u00ed dny sem v\u00edtr nafoukal p\u00edsek z nedalek\u00e9 pou\u0161t\u011b. B\u00edl\u00e9 ku\u017eely soli<\/strong> jsou v\u00fdsledek pr\u00e1ce d\u011bln\u00edk\u016f, kte\u0159\u00ed pracn\u011b s\u016fl doluj\u00ed a jsou za to mizern\u011b placeni. Jsou placeni tak m\u00e1lo, \u017ee si to leckdo z n\u00e1s, kdo to te\u010f \u010dte, nedok\u00e1\u017ee p\u0159edstavit – dost\u00e1vaj\u00ed 6 Bs za tunu soli. Kv\u016fli slunci, kter\u00e9 tu nesm\u00edrn\u011b pra\u017e\u00ed, si mus\u00ed si zakr\u00fdvat hlavu a nosit \u010dern\u00e9 br\u00fdle, maj\u00ed sp\u00e1len\u00e9 ruce a nohy, tak\u00e9 dost rozleptan\u00e9 od soli. Je to p\u0159\u00ed\u0161ern\u00e9. Tyhle ku\u017eely stav\u011bj\u00ed proto, aby se s\u016fl alespo\u0148 \u010d\u00e1ste\u010dn\u011b vysu\u0161ila, ne\u017e p\u016fjde na transport. <\/p>\n

\"Salar \"Salar<\/p>\n

Nedaleko jsou tzv. ojos de sal<\/strong> \u2013 hlubok\u00e9 otvory, odkud unik\u00e1 s\u00edra z vulk\u00e1n\u016f.<\/p>\n

\"Salar<\/p>\n

Popoj\u00ed\u017ed\u00edme d\u00e1l, kde u\u017e nevid\u00edme nic jin\u00e9ho, ne\u017e neskute\u010dn\u011b plochou b\u00edlou plochu a horizont t\u00e9m\u011b\u0159 v nekone\u010dnu. Zem\u011b se prom\u011bnila v halucinuj\u00edc\u00ed solnou desku, kter\u00e1 v\u00e1m pod nohama k\u0159upe jako sn\u011bhov\u00e1 krusta na ledem zamrzl\u00e9 \u0159ece. Na povrch use vytv\u00e1\u0159ej\u00ed p\u0159en\u00e1dhern\u00e9 geometrick\u00e9 obrazce.<\/p>\n

\"Salar \"Salar \"Salar\"Salar<\/p>\n

Tady Lorenzo otev\u00edr\u00e1 kufr, kter\u00fd je pln\u00fd j\u00eddla, a serv\u00edruje n\u00e1m prvn\u00ed chod. V\u0161ichni m\u011bli lamu a\u017e na m\u011b \u2013 j\u00e1 m\u011bla vaje\u010dnou omeletu s quinoou a zeleninou. Jako dezert byl ban\u00e1n. V\u0161em n\u00e1m chutn\u00e1 a Lorenzo se \u010derven\u00e1. \ud83d\ude42<\/p>\n

\"Salar<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Isla Inca Huasi<\/strong><\/h2>\n

Rozlehl\u00e1 b\u00edl\u00e1 plocha je poz\u016fstatkem jezera z dob pleistoc\u00e9nu Lago Minchin a tak se ob\u010das na t\u00e9 obrovsk\u00e9 b\u00edl\u00e9 plo\u0161e objev\u00ed n\u011bjak\u00fd ostr\u016fvek. Z nenad\u00e1n\u00ed se p\u0159ed n\u00e1mi vyno\u0159uje ostr\u016fvek Inca Huasi porostl\u00fd kaktusy a kameny, je\u017e jsou poz\u016fstatky kor\u00e1l\u016f z dob, kdy byl Salar velik\u00fdm slan\u00fdm jezerem. Po uhrazen\u00ed vstupn\u00e9ho 30 Bs si m\u016f\u017eeme ud\u011blat men\u0161\u00ed 45-minutovou proch\u00e1zku a nav\u0161t\u00edvit t\u0159eba malink\u00e9 muzeum tradi\u010dn\u00edch ceremoni\u00e1l\u016f. Ale p\u0159edev\u0161\u00edm je odsud n\u00e1dhern\u00fd v\u00fdhled na nekon\u010d\u00edc\u00ed b\u00edlou pl\u00e1\u0148.<\/p>\n

\"Salar \"Salar \"Salar \"Salar<\/p>\n

Lorenzo n\u00e1s bere na dal\u0161\u00ed kr\u00e1sn\u00e1 m\u00edsta uprost\u0159ed Salaru, kde ohromeni \u00fa\u017easem fot\u00edme jak div\u00ed. Je to tady, kde m\u016f\u017eete za\u017e\u00edt nejv\u011bt\u0161\u00ed p\u0159\u00edrodn\u00ed zrcadlo na sv\u011bt\u011b, pokud se sem dostanete v dob\u011b, kdy tu pr\u0161\u00ed. To pak m\u00e1 Salar de Uyuni \u00fapln\u011b jin\u00fd n\u00e1dech!<\/p>\n

\"Salar \"Salar\"Salar \"Salar\"Salar \"Salar<\/p>\n

Opou\u0161t\u00edme solnou pl\u00e1\u0148 Salar de Uyuni a po cest\u011b autem vid\u00edme okoln\u00ed kopce jakoby se vyno\u0159ovaly z vodn\u00ed hladiny a odr\u00e1\u017eely se na n\u00ed. Soln\u00e1 ploch\u00e1 krajina se pomalu m\u011bn\u00ed na pou\u0161tn\u00ed krajinu s vulk\u00e1ny a ztr\u00e1c\u00ed na b\u011blosti.<\/p>\n

\"Salar \"Salar<\/p>\n

Ve\u010der p\u0159ij\u00ed\u017ed\u00edme do jak\u00e9hosi soln\u00e9ho hostelu v San Juan, kde jsou st\u011bny i podlaha ze soli. Uv\u00edtaj\u00ed n\u00e1s tu \u010dajem a su\u0161enkami. Po ve\u010de\u0159i se vyd\u00e1v\u00e1me hledat n\u011bjak\u00fd bar, kter\u00fd ov\u0161em nenajdeme. Ka\u017ed\u00fd, koho se zept\u00e1me, n\u00e1s pos\u00edl\u00e1 jinam. Je ji\u017e \u00fapln\u00e1 tma a tak alespo\u0148 p\u0159i na\u0161em vandrov\u00e1n\u00ed pozorujeme hv\u011bzdy \u2013 jsme v nadmo\u0159sk\u00e9 v\u00fd\u0161ce zhruba 3650 m a hv\u011bzdy se zdaj\u00ed b\u00fdt tak bl\u00edzko \u2013 je to n\u00e1dhera. Nakonec se p\u0159eci jen vr\u00e1t\u00edme v\u010das a jdeme sp\u00e1t. R\u00e1no n\u00e1s toti\u017e \u010dek\u00e1 dal\u0161\u00ed dobrodru\u017estv\u00ed v oblasti Sud-L\u00edpez, ale o tom a\u017e v p\u0159\u00ed\u0161t\u00edm \u010dl\u00e1nku! \ud83d\ude42<\/p>\n

V\u00fdlet na Salar n\u00e1s ohromil – tis\u00edce kilometr\u016f rovn\u00e9 soln\u00e9 krajiny, kde sn\u011bhov\u011b b\u00edl\u00e1 kontrastuje se syt\u011b modrou oblohou, ostrov porostl\u00fd kaktusy, zch\u00e1tral\u00e9 parn\u00ed lokomotivy, koleje vedouc\u00ed do nekone\u010dna, to v\u0161e n\u00e1m z\u016fstane v kr\u00e1sn\u00fdch vzpom\u00ednk\u00e1ch. B\u00edlou poh\u00e1dku naru\u0161uje jen fakt, \u017ee krajin\u011b soln\u00fdch pl\u00e1n\u00ed Salar de Uyuni hroz\u00ed nebezpe\u010d\u00ed. Pod solnou krustou se toti\u017e nach\u00e1z\u00ed nejv\u011bt\u0161\u00ed z\u00e1soby lithia na sv\u011bt\u011b, mo\u017en\u00e1 nad\u011bje na lep\u0161\u00ed z\u00edt\u0159ky zem\u011b. Vzhledem k tomu, \u017ee se jedn\u00e1 o chr\u00e1n\u011bnou oblast, pot\u0159ebn\u00e1 infrastruktura na t\u011b\u017eebn\u00ed pr\u00e1ce zde zat\u00edm nebyla vybudov\u00e1na, nicm\u00e9n\u011b sou\u010dasn\u00e1 vl\u00e1da pl\u00e1nuje ter\u00e9n po\u0159\u00e1dn\u011b prozkoumat. Je jasn\u00e9, \u017ee a\u017e dostane povolen\u00ed a poda\u0159\u00ed se j\u00ed m\u00edstn\u00ed p\u0159esv\u011bd\u010dit, jak\u00e9 bohatstv\u00ed se tam skr\u00fdv\u00e1, vyrostou tu s nejv\u011bt\u0161\u00ed pravd\u011bpodobnost\u00ed tov\u00e1rny a silnice, co\u017e zni\u010d\u00ed kr\u00e1su t\u00e9to magick\u00e9 krajiny.<\/p>\n

Nav\u0161t\u00edvili jste Salar de Uyuni? Jak\u00e9 byly va\u0161e dojmy? <\/strong><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Salar de Uyuni je se svou rozlohou 10 582 km\u00b2 nejv\u011bt\u0161\u00ed soln\u00e1 pl\u00e1\u0148 na sv\u011bt\u011b a d\u00edky sv\u00e9 nadmo\u0159sk\u00e9 v\u00fd\u0161ce 3 650 m se tak\u00e9 jedn\u00e1 o nejv\u00fd\u0161e polo\u017eenou solnou pl\u00e1\u0148 na sv\u011bt\u011b, nach\u00e1zej\u00edc\u00ed se na jihoz\u00e1pad\u011b Bol\u00edvie. Kr\u00e1sa surov\u00e9 krajiny d\u011bl\u00e1 ze Salaru jednu z nejkr\u00e1sn\u011bj\u0161\u00edch pod\u00edvan\u00fdch v Ji\u017en\u00ed Americe a…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":9951,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_exactmetrics_skip_tracking":false,"_exactmetrics_sitenote_active":false,"_exactmetrics_sitenote_note":"","_exactmetrics_sitenote_category":0,"_lmt_disableupdate":"","_lmt_disable":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[389,4],"tags":[390,376,372],"class_list":["post-9788","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-bolivie","category-cestovani","tag-bolivie","tag-jizni-amerika","tag-vylety-do-prirody"],"yoast_head":"\nSalar de Uyuni: nejv\u011bt\u0161\u00ed soln\u00e1 pl\u00e1\u0148 na sv\u011bt\u011b - 1001 Voyages Gourmands<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Salar de Uyuni je nejv\u011bt\u0161\u00ed soln\u00e1 pl\u00e1\u0148 na sv\u011bt\u011b, nach\u00e1zej\u00edc\u00ed se v jihoz\u00e1padn\u00ed Bol\u00edvii. 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