{"id":6168,"date":"2016-01-02T20:35:22","date_gmt":"2016-01-02T19:35:22","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/1001voyagesgourmands.com\/?p=6168"},"modified":"2016-04-20T00:03:11","modified_gmt":"2016-04-19T22:03:11","slug":"ostrovy-ballestas-male-peruanske-galapagy","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/1001voyagesgourmands.com\/cs\/ostrovy-ballestas-male-peruanske-galapagy\/","title":{"rendered":"Ostrovy Ballestas: Mal\u00e9 peru\u00e1nsk\u00e9 Galap\u00e1gy"},"content":{"rendered":"

Ostrovy Ballestas, jem\u017e je tak\u00e9 p\u0159ezd\u00edv\u00e1no Galap\u00e1gy pro chud\u00e9, jsou skupinka ostr\u016fvk\u016f pobl\u00ed\u017e m\u011bste\u010dka Paracas<\/strong> na ji\u017en\u00edm pob\u0159e\u017e\u00ed Peru. Jedn\u00e1 se o skaln\u00ed \u00fatvary vystupuj\u00edc\u00ed z mo\u0159e, jen\u017e jsou ob\u00fdv\u00e1ny jihoamerick\u00fdmi lachtany a mnoha druhy mo\u0159sk\u00fdch pt\u00e1k\u016f jako nap\u0159\u00edklad gu\u00e1no kormor\u00e1ny, Humboldtov\u00fdmi tu\u010d\u0148\u00e1ky, peru\u00e1nsk\u00fdmi pelik\u00e1ny, ryb\u00e1ky inka \u010di tereji modronoh\u00fdmi. <\/p>\n

\"Ostrovy<\/p>\n

Na ostrovy se po\u0159\u00e1daj\u00ed dvouhodinov\u00e9 okru\u017en\u00ed plavby \u010dlunem, vyplouv\u00e1 se z p\u0159\u00edstavu v Paracas<\/strong>. Hodn\u011b spole\u010dnost\u00ed tu nab\u00edz\u00ed takov\u00e9 plavby, a v\u0161echny za\u010d\u00ednaj\u00ed obvykle v 8 hodin, jeliko\u017e pak je mo\u0159e ji\u017e hodn\u011b rozbou\u0159en\u00e9. Jedn\u00e1 se o otev\u0159en\u00e9 \u010dluny, tak\u017ee je dobr\u00e9 m\u00edt s sebou n\u011bjakou ochranu proti v\u011btru, slunci, p\u0159\u00edpadn\u011b spr\u0161ce vody. Tak\u00e9 v p\u0159\u00edstavu prod\u00e1vaj\u00ed klobouky s t\u00edm, \u017ee pr\u00fd nen\u00ed neobvykl\u00e9 dostat pta\u010d\u00ed z\u00e1silku na hlavu. \ud83d\ude42 My jsme si klobouk nekoupili a nic n\u00e1m na hlav\u011b nep\u0159ist\u00e1lo, ale n\u00e1hoda je blbec \ud83d\ude42 Hlavn\u00ed je m\u00edt z\u00e1chrannou vestu a dostat v lodi m\u00edsto k sezen\u00ed – to je nutn\u00e9 si ov\u011b\u0159it p\u0159edem, jeliko\u017e n\u011bjak\u00e9 spole\u010dnosti se sna\u017e\u00ed lod\u011b o nejv\u00edc naplnit pro vy\u0161\u0161\u00ed zisk, a \u00fa\u010dastn\u00edci jsou pak nemile p\u0159ekvapeni. P\u0159i cest\u011b na ostrovy jsou ob\u010das vid\u011bt lachtani a delf\u00edni vyskakuj\u00edc\u00ed z vody, rackov\u00e9 a pelik\u00e1ni l\u00edtaj\u00ed v\u00fdprav\u00e1m t\u011bsn\u011b nad hlavou. <\/p>\n

\"Islas<\/p>\n

P\u0159i cest\u011b k ostrov\u016fm plujeme kolem velk\u00e9ho pre-hisp\u00e1nsk\u00e9ho geoglyfu El Candelabra<\/strong> („sv\u00edcen“), dlouh\u00e9ho +\/- 150 metr\u016f a \u0161irok\u00e9ho +\/- 40 metr\u016f, kter\u00fd poch\u00e1z\u00ed pravd\u011bpodobn\u011b z doby kultury Paracas (n\u011bco kolem 200 let p\u0159ed Kristem). Do dne\u0161ka se p\u0159esn\u011b nev\u00ed, jak vznikl – n\u011bkte\u0159\u00ed si mysl\u00ed, \u017ee byl vyryt lidmi za pomoci velk\u00fdch kamen\u016f a slou\u017eil jako navigace n\u00e1mo\u0159n\u00edk\u016fm, n\u011bkte\u0159\u00ed jsou p\u0159esv\u011bd\u010deni, \u017ee za n\u00edm jsou mimozem\u0161\u0165an\u00e9. A\u0165 je to ji\u017e jakkoliv, geoglyf je i dnes ohromuj\u00edc\u00ed. <\/p>\n

\"El<\/p>\n

Kdy\u017e p\u0159iplujeme k ostrov\u016fm, v\u00edt\u00e1 n\u00e1s skaln\u00ed oblouk poset\u00fd sed\u00edc\u00edmi pt\u00e1ky. N\u011bkte\u0159\u00ed tu jen tak vysed\u00e1vaj\u00ed a odpo\u010d\u00edvaj\u00ed, jin\u00ed p\u0159il\u00e9taj\u00ed \u010di odl\u00e9taj\u00ed, n\u011bkte\u0159\u00ed se tu proch\u00e1zej\u00ed po kamenech… Je to tu hodn\u011b „busy“!<\/p>\n

\"Ostrovy<\/p>\n

Pr\u016fvodce n\u00e1m vysv\u011btluje, \u017ee pr\u00e1v\u011b neuv\u011b\u0159iteln\u00e1 koncentrace n\u011bkolika druh\u016f mo\u0159sk\u00fdch pt\u00e1k\u016f na tak mal\u00fdch ostr\u016fvc\u00edch byla d\u016fvodem d\u0159\u00edv\u011bj\u0161\u00ed t\u011b\u017eby gu\u00e1no ve velk\u00e9m. Gu\u00e1no<\/strong> je nahromad\u011bn\u00fd trus mo\u0159sk\u00fdch pt\u00e1k\u016f, u\u017e\u00edvan\u00fd hojn\u011b jako organick\u00e9 hnojivo d\u00edky vysok\u00e9mu obsahu nutri\u010dn\u00edch l\u00e1tek nezbytn\u00fdch pro r\u016fst rostlin. D\u00edky hojn\u00e9mu po\u010dtu pt\u00e1k\u016f zde se vyprazd\u0148uj\u00edc\u00edch, se tu trus hromad\u00ed do vrstev a posl\u00e9ze je t\u011b\u017een. Peru je nejv\u011bt\u0161\u00ed sv\u011btov\u00fd producent tohoto hnojiva a hlavn\u00edmi pta\u010d\u00edm producentem je gu\u00e1no kormor\u00e1n, peru\u00e1nsk\u00fd pelik\u00e1n a terej modronoh\u00fd. Gu\u00e1no bylo Inky pova\u017eov\u00e1no za poklad a kdokoli ubli\u017eoval pt\u00e1k\u016fm, byl trest\u00e1n smrt\u00ed. B\u011bhem boomu t\u011b\u017eby gu\u00e1na v  polovin\u011b 19. stolet\u00ed bylo gu\u00e1no vyv\u00e1\u017eeno do zahrani\u010d\u00ed a bylo pomalu dra\u017e\u0161\u00ed ne\u017e st\u0159\u00edbro. Dnes jsou jeho tehdej\u0161\u00ed n\u011bkolikametrov\u00e9 z\u00e1soby ji\u017e zten\u010den\u00e9 a slou\u017e\u00ed p\u0159ev\u00e1\u017en\u011b peru\u00e1nsk\u00fdm organick\u00fdm farm\u00e1\u0159\u016fm. <\/p>\n

\"Islas<\/p>\n

Vid\u00edme tu v\u0161echny z\u00e1stupce hlavn\u00edch producent\u016f gu\u00e1na. Na dolej\u0161\u00ed fotografii je terej modronoh\u00fd<\/strong>.<\/p>\n

\"Ostrovy<\/p>\n

Pelik\u00e1n<\/strong> p\u0159el\u00e9t\u00e1v\u00e1 nad tereji a kormor\u00e1ny.<\/p>\n

\"Ostrovy<\/p>\n

D\u00e1le pak gu\u00e1no kormor\u00e1n<\/strong> (na dolej\u0161\u00ed fotografii je to ten v\u011bt\u0161\u00ed nalevo) a ryb\u00e1k inka (ti men\u0161\u00ed \u010dern\u00ed pt\u00e1ci s \u010derven\u00fdm zob\u00e1kem).<\/p>\n

\"Ostrovy<\/p>\n

Vid\u00edme tak\u00e9 p\u00e1r peru\u00e1nsk\u00fdch pelik\u00e1n\u016f<\/strong> hodn\u011b zbl\u00edzka.<\/p>\n

\"DSC_0542\"<\/p>\n

A kone\u010dn\u011b vid\u00edme skupinku promenuj\u00edc\u00edch se Humboldtov\u00fdch tu\u010d\u0148\u00e1k\u016f<\/strong>. Jeden jde jako prvn\u00ed a z jeho v\u00fdrazu se d\u00e1 \u0159\u00edct, \u017ee zkoum\u00e1 ter\u00e9n, ostatn\u00ed ho n\u00e1sleduj\u00ed. Jsou roztomile vtipn\u00ed.<\/p>\n

\"Humboldtovi<\/p>\n

P\u0159i plavb\u011b kolem ostrov\u016f d\u00e1le obdivujeme lachtany<\/strong> a poslouch\u00e1me jejich kv\u00edlen\u00ed, kter\u00e9 se ob\u010das oz\u00fdv\u00e1 o st\u011bny skaln\u00edch \u00fatvar\u016f. Vyvaluj\u00ed se tu na st\u011bn\u00e1ch, kam je vynese mo\u0159e. Je to neskute\u010dn\u00e9. Tihle v\u0161ichni tu \u017eij\u00ed a je\u0161t\u011b plno dal\u0161\u00edch je na lovu n\u011bkde v mo\u0159i. M\u00e1m stra\u0161nou chu\u0165 si je pohladit, ale \u010dlun nesm\u00ed plout \u00fapln\u011b bl\u00edzko, aby se zv\u00ed\u0159ata nepolekala.<\/p>\n

\"lachtani<\/p>\n

\"Ostrovy<\/p>\n

\"Ostrovy<\/p>\n

\"lachtani<\/p>\n

\"lachtani<\/p>\n

\"lachtani<\/p>\n

A tady je porodn\u00ed pl\u00e1\u017e – m\u00edsto, kam se v obdob\u00ed porod\u016f uchyluj\u00ed lachtan\u00ed samice. Je jich tu pr\u00fd nespo\u010det a \u010dasto tu mus\u00ed nechat mal\u00e9, aby mohly sehnat ob\u017eivu (co\u017e kolikr\u00e1t trv\u00e1 n\u011bkolik dn\u00ed). Pokud m\u00e1 ml\u00e1d\u011b \u0161t\u011bst\u00ed a nen\u00ed mezit\u00edm napadeno star\u0161\u00edmi lachtany, p\u0159e\u017eije, ale je\u0161t\u011b nem\u00e1 vyhr\u00e1no – matka ho pot\u00e9 mus\u00ed naj\u00edt v davu ostatn\u00edch. <\/p>\n

\"DSC_0535\"<\/p>\n

Pod\u00e9l peru\u00e1nsk\u00e9ho pob\u0159e\u017e\u00ed je st\u00e1le n\u011bkolik m\u00edst, kde se gu\u00e1no hnojivo<\/strong> st\u00e1le t\u011b\u017e\u00ed a tak tam s\u00eddl\u00ed vybran\u00ed lid\u00e9, kte\u0159\u00ed ho sb\u00edraj\u00ed a stav\u00ed na n\u011bm sv\u00e9 \u017eivobyt\u00ed – vyd\u011blaj\u00ed si tak dvojn\u00e1sobek minim\u00e1ln\u00ed mzdy v Peru. Tady je gu\u00e1no stanice na Islas Ballestas.<\/p>\n

\"Guano<\/p>\n

U dok\u016f to ot\u00e1\u010d\u00edme a vrac\u00edme se zp\u011bt do Paracas. Peru\u00e1n\u0161t\u00ed teenage\u0159i v na\u0161em \u010dlunu jsou z v\u00fdletu nad\u0161en\u00ed – nep\u0159est\u00e1vaj\u00ed se sm\u00e1t a fotit selfie. \ud83d\ude42 Tady je jeden z posledn\u00edch pohled\u016f na ostrovy Ballestas, kde kohabituj\u00ed mo\u0159\u0161t\u00ed pt\u00e1ci a lachtani. (Ten \u010dern\u00fd p\u00e1s na dolej\u0161\u00ed fotografii, to jsou pt\u00e1ci.)<\/p>\n

\"Islas<\/p>\n

\"Islas<\/p>\n

Po p\u0159\u00edjezdu do p\u0159\u00edstavu n\u00e1s pak v\u00edt\u00e1 n\u011bkolik Peru\u00e1nc\u016f pod\u00e9l promen\u00e1dy, kte\u0159\u00ed vyu\u017e\u00edvaj\u00ed nenapln\u011bn\u00e9 nat\u011b\u0161enosti lid\u00ed p\u0159ibl\u00ed\u017eit se ke zv\u00ed\u0159at\u016fm a nab\u00edz\u00ed za poplatek focen\u00ed s pelik\u00e1nem. Pelik\u00e1n otv\u00edr\u00e1 zob\u00e1k a chyt\u00e1 do n\u011bj rybi\u010dky, kter\u00e9 se mu h\u00e1z\u00ed.<\/p>\n

\"20151114_100307\"<\/p>\n

\"Paracas\"<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Ostrovy Ballestas, jem\u017e je tak\u00e9 p\u0159ezd\u00edv\u00e1no Galap\u00e1gy pro chud\u00e9, jsou skupinka ostr\u016fvk\u016f pobl\u00ed\u017e m\u011bste\u010dka Paracas na ji\u017en\u00edm pob\u0159e\u017e\u00ed Peru. Jedn\u00e1 se o skaln\u00ed \u00fatvary vystupuj\u00edc\u00ed z mo\u0159e, jen\u017e jsou ob\u00fdv\u00e1ny jihoamerick\u00fdmi lachtany a mnoha druhy mo\u0159sk\u00fdch pt\u00e1k\u016f jako nap\u0159\u00edklad gu\u00e1no kormor\u00e1ny, Humboldtov\u00fdmi tu\u010d\u0148\u00e1ky, peru\u00e1nsk\u00fdmi pelik\u00e1ny, ryb\u00e1ky inka \u010di tereji modronoh\u00fdmi.  Na…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":6243,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_exactmetrics_skip_tracking":false,"_exactmetrics_sitenote_active":false,"_exactmetrics_sitenote_note":"","_exactmetrics_sitenote_category":0,"_lmt_disableupdate":"","_lmt_disable":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[4,374],"tags":[376,375,372],"class_list":["post-6168","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-cestovani","category-peru","tag-jizni-amerika","tag-peru","tag-vylety-do-prirody"],"yoast_head":"\nOstrovy Ballestas: Mal\u00e9 peru\u00e1nsk\u00e9 Galap\u00e1gy - 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