{"id":30919,"date":"2023-10-19T23:42:24","date_gmt":"2023-10-19T21:42:24","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/1001voyagesgourmands.com\/?p=30919"},"modified":"2023-10-19T23:41:32","modified_gmt":"2023-10-19T21:41:32","slug":"severni-toskansko-versilia-a-okoli-cast-i","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/1001voyagesgourmands.com\/cs\/severni-toskansko-versilia-a-okoli-cast-i\/","title":{"rendered":"Severn\u00ed Tosk\u00e1nsko – Versilia a okol\u00ed – \u010d\u00e1st I"},"content":{"rendered":"

Mus\u00edm p\u0159iznat, \u017ee na\u0161e lo\u0148sk\u00e9 italsk\u00e9 pr\u00e1zdniny nebyly p\u0159edem p\u0159\u00edli\u0161 promy\u0161len\u00e9 – jen jsme v\u011bd\u011bli, \u017ee bychom r\u00e1di n\u011bkam do severn\u00edho Tosk\u00e1nska a \u010d\u00e1ste\u010dn\u011b ho projet, ale z\u00e1rove\u0148 si i u\u017e\u00edt mo\u0159e a p\u00edse\u010dnou pl\u00e1\u017e\u00ed s malou. Konkr\u00e9tn\u00ed m\u00edsto pobytu jsme rozhodli asi den p\u0159ed odjezdem, kdy jsme na\u0161li je\u0161t\u011b na posledn\u00ed chv\u00edli ubytov\u00e1n\u00ed kousek od Forte dei Marmi. Netu\u0161ili jsme, jak moc se n\u00e1m tam bude l\u00edbit… Deset dn\u00ed ve Versilia a okol\u00ed bylo pln\u00fdch ne\u010dekan\u00fdch mil\u00fdch dojm\u016f z m\u00edst, kter\u00e1 jsme nav\u0161t\u00edvili, j\u00eddlel, kter\u00e1 jsme tu ochutnali a nov\u011b si obl\u00edbili (t\u0159eba jako pln\u011bn\u00e9 t\u011bstoviny se \u0161alv\u011bj\u00ed v m\u00e1slov\u00e9 om\u00e1\u010dce nebo dom\u00e1c\u00ed lik\u00e9r z bobkov\u00e9ho listu), a lid\u00ed, na kter\u00e9 jsme tu narazili. <\/p>\n

Po v\u00edkendu u jezera Como<\/a> a jednodenn\u00edm v\u00fdletu do Cinque Terre<\/a>, jsme z\u016fstali n\u011bco m\u00e1lo p\u0159es t\u00fdden v severn\u00edm Tosk\u00e1nsku – p\u0159ev\u00e1\u017en\u011b ve Versilii a okol\u00ed. Versilia je oblast rozkl\u00e1daj\u00edc\u00ed se mezi ligursk\u00fdm pob\u0159e\u017e\u00edm a \u00fapat\u00edm Apu\u00e1nsk\u00fdch Alp. A zamilovali jsme si to tam – \u010dt\u011bte d\u00e1l a uvid\u00edte pro\u010d. V dne\u0161n\u00edm \u010dl\u00e1nku v\u00e1m p\u0159edstav\u00edm prvn\u00edch 5 m\u00edst a v dal\u0161\u00edm pak zbyl\u00e1 4, tak\u017ee pokud v\u00e1s tato oblast zaj\u00edm\u00e1 a nechcete ji omezit jen na Pisu a Florencii, tak si nezapome\u0148te kliknout na odeb\u00edrat novinky, aby v\u00e1m dal\u0161\u00ed \u010dl\u00e1nek p\u0159ist\u00e1l rovnou do emailu. \ud83d\ude09<\/p>\n

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Ubytov\u00e1n\u00ed jsme nemohli m\u00edt lep\u0161\u00ed<\/h4>\n

Jak jsem ji\u017e psala, ubytov\u00e1n\u00ed jsme sehnali den p\u0159ed odjezdem p\u0159es Agriturismo, a sice v Seravezza, nedaleko p\u0159\u00edmo\u0159sk\u00e9ho Forte dei Marmi. A l\u00edbilo se n\u00e1m tu natolik, \u017ee jsme si p\u016fvodn\u00ed t\u00fdden prot\u00e1hli na deset noc\u00ed. Il Paradiso Agriturismo Biologico<\/a><\/strong> se nech\u00e1z\u00ed v kopc\u00edch nad Seravezzou, cca 15-20 minut j\u00edzdy autem od pl\u00e1\u017e\u00ed ve Forte dei Marmi. Prvn\u00ed \u010d\u00e1st cesty dol\u016f poskytuje dechberouc\u00ed v\u00fdhledy do krajiny – v\u00fdhledy na kopce, ze kter\u00fdch se extrahuje mramor, st\u0159\u00eddaj\u00ed v\u00fdhledy na hust\u011b os\u00edlen\u00e9 m\u011bste\u010dko na pob\u0159e\u017e\u00ed a \u0161ir\u00e9 mo\u0159e.<\/p>\n

Ten p\u016fvabn\u00fd star\u00fd d\u016fm m\u00e1 n\u011bkolik m\u00e1lo pokoj\u016f s vlastn\u00ed koupelnou a je stylov\u011b av\u0161ak skromn\u011b za\u0159\u00edzen\u00fd star\u00fdm m\u00edstn\u00edm tosk\u00e1nsk\u00fdm n\u00e1bytkem a dekoracemi, a p\u016fsob\u00ed tak velice autenticky. Z pokoj\u016f i terasy, na kter\u00e9 se pod\u00e1v\u00e1 sn\u00eddan\u011b a ve\u010de\u0159e, je p\u0159en\u00e1dhern\u00fd v\u00fdhled p\u0159es zahradu a okoln\u00ed kopce a\u017e dol\u016f na Forte dei Marmi a na pob\u0159e\u017e\u00ed \u010di na bl\u00edzk\u00fd mal\u00fd ostr\u016fvek. T\u00edm jsme se kochali ka\u017edi\u010dk\u00e9 r\u00e1no, kdy jsme si tu vychutn\u00e1vali sn\u00eddani, jej\u00ed\u017e sou\u010d\u00e1st\u00ed bylo ka\u017ed\u00fd den \u010derstv\u00e9 pe\u010divo z okoln\u00ed Pietrasanty a ovoce z jejich vlastn\u00ed rozhlehl\u00e9 zahrady.<\/p>\n

Agriturismo m\u00e1 na starosti jeho majitel Matteo, kter\u00fd ve voln\u00e9m \u010dase mimo sezonu d\u011bl\u00e1 sochy z plechu a jin\u00fdch zaj\u00edmav\u00fdch materi\u00e1l\u016f. Ty m\u016f\u017eete vid\u011bt v rozlehl\u00e9 zahrad\u011b kolem.  V sezon\u011b byl u\u017e od r\u00e1na Matteo i s kucha\u0159i v kuchyni, p\u0159iv\u00e1\u017eeli n\u00e1kup a sb\u00edrali \u00farodu ze zahr\u00e1dky, aby b\u011bhem dne p\u0159ichystali v\u0161e na ve\u010dern\u00ed degusta\u010dn\u00ed n\u011bkolikachodov\u00e9 menu nejen pro hosty, ale i lid\u00e9 ze \u0161ir\u00e9ho okol\u00ed – ve\u010de\u0159e zde jsou pr\u00fd vyhl\u00e1\u0161en\u00e9 a maj\u00ed t\u00e9m\u011b\u0159 v\u017edy plno. Pokud tu chcete ve\u010de\u0159et, sta\u010d\u00ed jim to \u0159\u00edci b\u011bhem dne, na hosty si v\u017edy ud\u011blaj\u00ed m\u00edsto i na ve\u010de\u0159i. Pokud se tak rozhodnete, tak je ur\u010dit\u011b dobr\u00e9 ten den moc nej\u00edst, abyste m\u011bli m\u00edsto na v\u0161echny ty zdrav\u00e9 dobroty. \ud83d\ude42 Je to z\u00e1\u017eitek s\u00e1m o sob\u011b a t\u0159e\u0161inka na dortu pro rodi\u010de mal\u00fdch d\u011bt\u00ed je, \u017ee m\u016f\u017eete ulo\u017eit d\u00edt\u011b, d\u00e1t mu tam ch\u016fvi\u010dku, a pak si j\u00edt dolu sednout pod okny a d\u00e1t si k ve\u010de\u0159i v\u00edno a sed\u011bt tam klidn\u011b do p\u016flnoci, zat\u00edmco d\u00edte v\u00e1m sp\u00ed doslova nad hlavou. \ud83d\ude09<\/p>\n

\"Versilia\"\" \"\" \"Versilia \"\" \"\"\"\"\"\" \"\"\"Versilia \"\"\"\"\"Versilia\"\"\"\"\"\"\"\"\"\"\"Versilia\"\" \"\"\"\"\"\"\"\"\"Versilia\"\" \"Versilia \"\" \"\" \"Versilia \"\"<\/p>\n

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Forte dei Marmi<\/h4>\n

Forte dei Marmi <\/strong>je velice \u0161ik p\u0159\u00edmo\u0159sk\u00e1 destinace, co\u017e pozn\u00e1te podle m\u011bn\u00e9 skromn\u00fdch vilek, sirok\u00e9ho v\u00fdb\u011bru restaurac\u00ed a butik\u016f, nebo drah\u00fdch pl\u00e1\u017e\u00ed se v\u0161\u00edm servisem. A tak\u00e9 podle chodn\u00edk\u016f z mramoru – i kdy\u017e, nen\u00ed se \u010demu divit – mramoru je tu v okol\u00ed dostatek a v minulosti se tu shroma\u017e\u010foval mramor z okol\u00ed a vyv\u00e1\u017eel se na lod\u00edch ven. M\u011bsto je pln\u00e9 hlavn\u011b Ital\u016f, ciz\u00ed jazyky jsme zde moc nesly\u0161eli, ba skoro v\u016fbec.<\/p>\n

Av\u0161ak najdete tu i m\u00edsta, kter\u00e1 nepat\u0159\u00ed jen do luxusn\u00ed kategorie. Na severu najdete i spiaggia libera – pl\u00e1\u017e zdarma. Je rozlehl\u00e1, p\u00edsek jemn\u011b do b\u011bla a snadn\u00fd a dlouh\u00fd m\u011blk\u00fd vstup do vody. Pro milovn\u00edky plav\u00e1n\u00ed to chce trochu trp\u011blivosti, ne\u017e se dostanete d\u00e1le, abyste si zaplavali, ale pro mal\u00e9 d\u011bti je to bomba. N\u00e1m se nejv\u00edce l\u00edbily ty b\u011blav\u00e9 hory v pozad\u00ed – nen\u00ed to sn\u00edh, ale mramor! \ud83d\ude42 Ve m\u011bste najdete tak\u00e9 restaurace a gelaterie norm\u00e1ln\u00edch cenov\u00fdch kategori\u00ed, st\u0159ede\u010dn\u00ed trh s kvalitn\u00edm oble\u010den\u00edm \u010di ubrusy \u0161it\u00fdmi v It\u00e1lii za f\u00e9r cenu (ln\u011bn\u00e9 ko\u0161ile, ka\u0161m\u00edrov\u00e9 svetry a \u0161\u00e1ly, ko\u017een\u00e9 p\u00e1sky, apod.), nebo t\u0159eba obrovsk\u00e9 h\u0159i\u0161t\u011b zast\u0159e\u0161en\u00e9 pinetami (vysok\u00fdmi borovicemi s plochou korunou).<\/p>\n

N\u00e1\u0161 tip<\/strong>: st\u0159ede\u010dn\u00ed trh zm\u00edn\u011bn\u00fd v\u00fd\u0161e najdete na Piazza Marconi, gelateria O Sole Mio (jejich Sachr zmrzlinu zat\u00edm \u017e\u00e1dn\u00e1 jin\u00e1 nep\u0159eklonala), trh se staro\u017eitnostmi v p\u016flce srpna, rozlehl\u00e9 ocbhody s m\u00edstn\u00edm n\u00e1bytkem a dekorac\u00ed u v\u00fdjezdu z m\u011bsta<\/p>\n

\"Versilia \"\" \"Versilia \"Versilia \"\" \"\" \"\"\"Versilia \"\"\"\"\"\"<\/p>\n

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Pietrasanta<\/h4>\n

Pietrasanta<\/strong> je klenot Versilie a jej\u00ed b\u00fdval\u00e9 hlavn\u00ed m\u011bsto. Je to r\u00e1j pro ka\u017edou um\u011bleckou du\u0161i a muzeum pod \u0161ir\u00fdm nebem. Toto p\u0159\u00edjemn\u00e9 m\u011bste\u010dko nedaleko pob\u0159e\u017e\u00ed v severn\u00edm Tosk\u00e1nsku se tak\u00e9 stalo domovem sv\u011btov\u011b zn\u00e1m\u00fdch um\u011blc\u016f jako nap\u0159\u00edklad ned\u00e1vno zem\u0159el\u00e9ho kolumbijsk\u00e9ho socha\u0159e Fernando Botero jeho\u017e sochu bojovn\u00edka jsme ve m\u011bst\u011b na\u0161li hned po zaparkov\u00e1n\u00ed a jeho\u017e malbami je zdoben\u00fd jeden kostel v centru.<\/p>\n

M\u016f\u017eete se tu jen tak proch\u00e1zet a kochat se galeriemi, sochama, workshopy nebo butiky zasv\u011bcen\u00fdmi um\u011bn\u00ed, kv\u011btin\u00e1m nebo m\u00f3d\u011b, ochutnat m\u00edstn\u00ed speciality nebo si d\u00e1t dobr\u00e9 v\u00edno z regionu v nes\u010detn\u00e9m v\u00fdb\u011bru restaurac\u00ed s venkovn\u00edm posezen\u00edm kter\u00e9 v\u011bt\u0161inou zasahuje i do druh\u00e9 poloviny ulice. Zkuste m\u00edstn\u00ed specialitu zvanou Schrocchiarella – takov\u00e1 nafoukan\u00e1 vzdu\u0161n\u00e1 verze pizzy. A ur\u010dit\u011b nav\u0161tivte ty kr\u00e1sn\u00e9 kostely – ka\u017ed\u00fd je \u00fapln\u011b jin\u00fd! P\u0159es den je tu klid, kolem poledne si sko\u010dte na p\u0159ilehlou pl\u00e1\u017e, ale ve\u010der se vra\u0165te, o\u017e\u00edv\u00e1 to tu a m\u011bsto dostane jin\u00fd r\u00e1z. <\/p>\n

\"Versilia \"\"\"\"\"Versilia\"\"\"\"\"\"\"\"\"Versilia\"Versilia\"\"\"Versilia\"\"\"Versilia\"\" \"\"<\/p>\n

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Carrara<\/h4>\n

Jeliko\u017e Forte dei Marmi je siln\u011b spjat s t\u011b\u017ebou mramoru a \u010dlov\u011bk tu proj\u00ed\u017ed\u00ed kolem m\u00edst, kde ty kusy tohoto kr\u00e1sn\u00e9ho kamene v m\u00edstn\u00edm \u0161edob\u00edl\u00e9m zabarven\u00ed shroma\u017e\u010fuj\u00ed a n\u011bjak ho zprocesuj\u00ed, ani n\u00e1m to nedalo a cht\u011bli jsme se dozv\u011bd\u011bt o t\u011b\u017eb\u011b mramoru v\u00edce. Matteo n\u00e1m poradil dojet do Carrary a poptat Marmotour<\/a>.<\/p>\n

Na\u0161li jsme je a pr\u016fvodkyn\u011b Francesca n\u00e1s zavedla do jedn\u00e9 jeskyn\u011b, kde n\u00e1m uk\u00e1zala t\u011b\u017ebu mramoru v jeskyni – vlastn\u011b takov\u00fdm \u0159\u00edkaj\u00ed sp\u00ed\u0161e katedr\u00e1la, a tato konkr\u00e9tn\u00ed nese jm\u00e9no Marmi Galleria Ravaccione. Byly tam k vid\u011bn\u00ed i r\u016fzn\u00e9 ma\u0161in\u00e9rie, kter\u00e9 se k t\u011b\u017eb\u011b pou\u017e\u00edvaj\u00ed, \u0159\u00edkala n\u00e1m, kolik lid\u00ed tam pracuje, kam se jimi t\u011b\u017een\u00fd mramor pou\u017eil, a n\u011bco i o historii t\u00e9 katedr\u00e1ly, jak dlouho kopali tunel atd. – bylo to velice zaj\u00edmav\u00e9. Po p\u0159\u00edjezdu do Marmi Galleria Ravaccione n\u00e1s tam p\u0159iv\u00edtala reprodukce Michelangelovy Genesis, jeliko\u017e maestro pro sv\u00e1 d\u00edla pou\u017e\u00edval mramor pr\u00e1v\u011b z t\u00e9to oblasti.<\/p>\n

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Colonnata<\/h4>\n

Po n\u00e1v\u0161t\u011bv\u011b mramorov\u00e9 jeskyn\u011b neboli katedr\u00e1ly, jsme od Francescy dostali tip na nedalk\u00e9 m\u011bste\u010dko-v\u00edsku jm\u00e9nem Colonnata. A\u017e p\u0159\u00edmo tam se nedalo dojet autem, to se zaparkuje na parkovi\u0161ti a d\u00e1l u v\u00e1s pak vezme autobus, kter\u00fd tu pendluje. Po v\u00fdstupu z toho autobusu n\u00e1s p\u0159iv\u00edtala op\u011bt mramorov\u00e1 podlaha na n\u00e1m\u011bst\u00ed a b\u00edl\u00e9 hory ty\u010d\u00edc\u00ed se nad m\u00edstn\u00edmi domy. Pro\u0161li jsme si cel\u00e9 to m\u00edsto, zav\u00edtali do kostela, kter\u00fd byl vevnit\u0159 n\u00e1dhern\u00fd. Sem tam jsme na\u0161li malby nebo fotografie v\u011bnovan\u00e9 extrakci mramoru v d\u0159\u00edv\u011bj\u0161\u00edch dob\u00e1ch. Dali jsme si na doporu\u010den\u00ed Francescy pala\u010dinky a pak se vydali na nejbli\u017e\u0161\u00ed hezkou pl\u00e1\u017e do Lerici.<\/p>\n

\"\" \"\" \"\" \"Versilia \"\" \"\" \"\" \"\"<\/p>\n

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Lerici <\/h4>\n

Jeliko\u017e n\u00e1v\u0161t\u011bva mramorov\u00e9 jeskyn\u011b i Colonnaty trvala pouze do brzk\u00e9ho odpoledne, m\u011bli jsme je\u0161t\u011b odpoledne \u010das na to se n\u011bkde smo\u010dit. Zam\u00ed\u0159ili jsme tedy do nejbli\u017e\u0161\u00edho p\u0159\u00edmo\u0159sk\u00e9ho letoviska, kter\u00e9 se n\u00e1m podle popisku a obr\u00e1zk\u016f na Googlu l\u00edbilo nejv\u00edc – Lerici. Pl\u00e1\u017e zde byla rozhodn\u011b men\u0161\u00ed ne\u017e ve Forte dei Marmi, ale dost velk\u00e1 na to, aby tam je\u0161t\u011b n\u011bkam zapadla na\u0161e deka pro t\u0159i. Mo\u0159e bylo kr\u00e1sn\u00e9 azurov\u00e9, hezky se tu plavalo. A v d\u00e1lce se na v\u00fdb\u011b\u017eku ty\u010dil hrad, na co\u017e byl moc hezk\u00fd pohled. N\u011bkolikr\u00e1t jsme se smo\u010dili, zaplavali a vyblbli na p\u00edsku, a p\u0159ed setm\u011bn\u00edm se vydali po promen\u00e1d\u011b do centra, kde u\u017e lidu bylo celkem slu\u0161n\u011b a to tak, \u017ee jsme m\u011bli i probl\u00e9m naj\u00edt m\u00edsto na ve\u010de\u0159i. Nicm\u00e9n\u011b moc p\u011bkn\u00e9 m\u00edsto v Ligurii.<\/p>\n

\"\" \"\"\"\" \"Versilia\"\"<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Mus\u00edm p\u0159iznat, \u017ee na\u0161e lo\u0148sk\u00e9 italsk\u00e9 pr\u00e1zdniny nebyly p\u0159edem p\u0159\u00edli\u0161 promy\u0161len\u00e9 – jen jsme v\u011bd\u011bli, \u017ee bychom r\u00e1di n\u011bkam do severn\u00edho Tosk\u00e1nska a \u010d\u00e1ste\u010dn\u011b ho projet, ale z\u00e1rove\u0148 si i u\u017e\u00edt mo\u0159e a p\u00edse\u010dnou pl\u00e1\u017e\u00ed s malou. Konkr\u00e9tn\u00ed m\u00edsto pobytu jsme rozhodli asi den p\u0159ed odjezdem, kdy jsme na\u0161li je\u0161t\u011b…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":30850,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_exactmetrics_skip_tracking":false,"_exactmetrics_sitenote_active":false,"_exactmetrics_sitenote_note":"","_exactmetrics_sitenote_category":0,"_lmt_disableupdate":"","_lmt_disable":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[4,593],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-30919","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-cestovani","category-italie"],"yoast_head":"\nSevern\u00ed Tosk\u00e1nsko - Versilia a okol\u00ed - \u010d\u00e1st I - 1001 Voyages Gourmands<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Versilia je oblast rozkl\u00e1daj\u00edc\u00ed se mezi ligursk\u00fdm pob\u0159e\u017e\u00edm a \u00fapat\u00edm Apu\u00e1nsk\u00fdch Alp. 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