{"id":16374,"date":"2017-05-10T08:44:23","date_gmt":"2017-05-10T06:44:23","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/1001voyagesgourmands.com\/?p=16374\/"},"modified":"2018-11-04T23:59:36","modified_gmt":"2018-11-04T22:59:36","slug":"ponce-perla-jizniho-portorika","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/1001voyagesgourmands.com\/cs\/ponce-perla-jizniho-portorika\/","title":{"rendered":"Ponce: perla ji\u017en\u00edho Portorika"},"content":{"rendered":"

Dnes v\u00e1m uk\u00e1\u017eu dal\u0161\u00ed kus Portorika a sice m\u011bsto Ponce a jeho okol\u00ed. Nejsem schopn\u00e1 v\u0161echny fotky a z\u00e1\u017eitky vt\u011bsnat do jednoho \u010dl\u00e1nku, a tak pl\u00e1nuji je\u0161t\u011b 2-3 dal\u0161\u00ed, ale ty budou sp\u00ed\u0161e pl\u00e1\u017eov\u011b zam\u011b\u0159en\u00e9. \ud83d\ude42 Snad v\u00e1s to neotr\u00e1v\u00ed a douf\u00e1m, \u017ee n\u011bkter\u00e9 z v\u00e1s t\u00edmto na tento p\u0159ekr\u00e1sn\u00fd karibsk\u00fd ostrov nal\u00e1k\u00e1m.<\/p>\n

Kr\u00e1sn\u00e9 koloni\u00e1ln\u00ed m\u011bste\u010dko Ponce, \u010dasto ozna\u010dov\u00e1no za perlu Jihu, je druh\u00e9 nejv\u011bt\u0161\u00ed a nejd\u016fle\u017eit\u011bj\u0161\u00ed m\u011bsto Portorika. Jm\u00e9no nese po jist\u00e9m Juan Ponce de Le\u00f3n y Loayza, co\u017e byl vnuk \u0161pan\u011blsk\u00e9ho conquistadora Juan Ponce de Le\u00f3n. My jsme si sem ud\u011blali v\u00fdlet ze San Juanu a z\u016fstali jsme zde t\u0159i dny. V tomhle \u010dl\u00e1nku v\u00e1m pov\u00edm, co je zde k vid\u011bn\u00ed – vydejte se se mnou na n\u00e1v\u0161t\u011bvu ji\u017en\u00edho Portorika!<\/p>\n

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Jak se tam dostat<\/span><\/h2>\n

Pokud chcete Portoriko procestovat, mus\u00edte si pronajmout auto. Ve\u0159ejn\u00e1 doprava je toti\u017e dost \u0161patn\u00e1, respektive nen\u00ed v\u016fbec. Tak\u017ee i my jsme s\u00e1hli do kapsy a vyklopili nemalou \u010d\u00e1stku za pron\u00e1jem auta na p\u00e1r dn\u00ed. Cena, za kterou jsme si auto „pronajali“ p\u0159es internet se tak na m\u00edst\u011b v agentu\u0159e nav\u00fd\u0161ila pro non-USA ob\u010dany o jejich speci\u00e1ln\u00ed poji\u0161t\u011bn\u00ed, plus d\u00e1lni\u010dn\u00ed poplatek a da\u0148. Cesta z hlavn\u00edho m\u011bsta San Juan sem po d\u00e1lnici trv\u00e1 n\u011bco kolem 1,5 hodiny a byl to teda ob\u010das adrenalin. M\u00edstn\u00ed \u0159idi\u010di r\u00e1di slalomuj\u00ed a p\u0159es d\u00e1lnici pob\u00edhaj\u00ed legu\u00e1ni, jeden n\u00e1m zahu\u010del pod autem – mysl\u00edm ty legu\u00e1ny (R.I.P.). <\/p>\n

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Ponce a okol\u00ed – Co tu vid\u011bt a d\u011blat<\/span><\/h2>\n

Proch\u00e1zka centrem Ponce<\/h3>\n

Prvn\u00ed den jsme se jen tak poflakovali po m\u011bst\u011b, shl\u00e9dli v\u0161e podstatn\u00e9, pro\u0161li uli\u010dky pln\u00e9 kr\u00e1sn\u00fdch pastelov\u00fdch domk\u016f. K hlavn\u00edm pam\u00e1tk\u00e1m v centru Ponce pat\u0159\u00ed hlavn\u00ed n\u00e1m\u011bst\u00ed Plaza Las Delicias<\/strong> se lv\u00ed font\u00e1nou, katedr\u00e1la a historick\u00e1 po\u017e\u00e1rn\u00ed stanice slou\u017e\u00edc\u00ed dnes jako muzeum pod jm\u00e9nem Parque de Bombas<\/strong>. Cht\u011bli jsme se tu p\u016fvodn\u011b stavit v Muzeu Portorik\u00e1nsk\u00e9 hudby<\/strong>, ale bylo moment\u00e1ln\u011b zav\u0159en\u00e9. \ud83d\ude41 <\/p>\n

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Z\u00e1pad slunce, hudba a koktejl na Paseo Tablado La Guancha<\/h3>\n

Kdy\u017e jsme m\u00edstn\u00edm v San Juanu \u0159\u00edkali, \u017ee se chyst\u00e1me do Ponce, v\u0161ichni mluvili o  La Guancha,<\/strong> moc fajn promen\u00e1d\u011b lemovan\u00e9 palmami, odkud je kr\u00e1sn\u00fd pohled na Karibsk\u00e9 mo\u0159e. A tak jsme tam pochopiteln\u011b zam\u00ed\u0159ili hned prvn\u00ed ve\u010der. \ud83d\ude42 Je tu plno bar\u016f, kde si \u010dlov\u011bk m\u016f\u017ee d\u00e1t koktejl a pozorovat t\u0159eba p\u00e1dluj\u00edc\u00ed surfa\u0159e nebo z\u00e1pad slunce. La Guancha je tak\u00e9 skv\u011bl\u00e9 m\u00edsto, pokud chcete splynout s m\u00edstn\u00edmi, na turisty jsme tu t\u00e9m\u011b\u0159 nenarazili. Nedaleko je i pl\u00e1\u017e a park, kde ve\u010der po setm\u011bn\u00ed tr\u00e9nuj\u00ed hudebn\u00edci. Tady jsme tr\u00e1vili hned dva ve\u010dery, tak se n\u00e1m tu l\u00edbilo. M\u00e1 to tu neskute\u010dnou atmosf\u00e9ru, nato\u017e ty z\u00e1pady slunce! <\/p>\n

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U pl\u00e1\u017ee jsem na\u0161la i tento osamn\u011bl\u00fd mangrovn\u00edk…<\/p>\n

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N\u00e1v\u0161t\u011bva k\u00e1vov\u00fdch plant\u00e1\u017e\u00ed<\/h3>\n

Na dal\u0161\u00ed den jsme m\u011bli napl\u00e1novan\u00fd v\u00fdlet do hor s n\u00e1v\u0161t\u011bvou k\u00e1vov\u00fdch plant\u00e1\u017e\u00ed. K\u00e1va vyv\u00e1\u017een\u00e1 z Portorika v 19. stolet\u00ed byla ve sv\u011bt\u011b pova\u017eov\u00e1na za jednu z nejlep\u0161\u00edch. Bohu\u017eel zlat\u00e9 \u010dasy pro v\u00fdvoz portorik\u00e1nsk\u00e9 k\u00e1vy netrvaly d\u00e9le ne\u017e jedno stolet\u00ed, jeliko\u017e produkce po n\u011bkolika p\u0159\u00edrodn\u00edch a ekonomicko-politick\u00fdch katastrof\u00e1ch zna\u010dn\u011b klesla. <\/p>\n

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R\u00e1no jsme si domluvili n\u00e1v\u0161t\u011bvu Hacienda Buena Vista<\/strong>, co\u017e je k\u00e1vov\u00e1 plant\u00e1\u017e zalo\u017een\u00e1 v prvn\u00ed polovin\u011b 19. stolet\u00ed jist\u00fdm Donem Salvadorem de Vives, pova\u017eov\u00e1na za jeden z nejlep\u0161\u00edch p\u0159\u00edklad\u016f portorik\u00e1nsk\u00e9 k\u00e1vov\u00e9 plant\u00e1\u017ee. Dnes je plant\u00e1\u017en\u00ed staven\u00ed obklopen\u00e9 subtropick\u00fdm lesem ve vlastnictv\u00ed konzerva\u010dn\u00edho fondu Portorika, kter\u00e9 ho provozuje jako muzeum. N\u00e1\u0161 pr\u016fvodce \u00c1ngel n\u00e1s vzal nejprve dovnit\u0159 plant\u00e1\u017en\u00edho domu, kde je k vid\u011bn\u00ed dobov\u00fd n\u00e1bytek, pot\u00e9 jsme se vydali lesem k vodop\u00e1d\u016fm, pro\u0161li si m\u00edstnost, kde se su\u0161ila k\u00e1vov\u00e1 zrna, vid\u011bli jsme jak fungoval ml\u00fdn na kuku\u0159ici poh\u00e1n\u011bn\u00fd vodou, kter\u00fd je st\u00e1le funk\u010dn\u00ed a je to jedin\u00fd zn\u00e1m\u00fd prototyp Barker turn\u00edny (pokud to n\u011bkomu z v\u00e1s n\u011bco \u0159\u00edk\u00e1).<\/p>\n

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Panoramick\u00e1 cesta<\/h3>\n

Pot\u00e9 jsme se vydali sm\u011brem na Ruta Panor\u00e1mica, asi 270 km dlouh\u00e1 s\u00ed\u0165 sekund\u00e1rn\u00edch silnic t\u00e1hnouc\u00edch se poho\u0159\u00edm Cordillera Central. Cesta n\u00e1s vedla mal\u00fdma vesni\u010dkama a sem tam se naskytl p\u011bkn\u00fd pohled na okol\u00ed, sem tam n\u011bjak\u00fd ten vrak.<\/p>\n

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V\u00fdlet do such\u00e9ho lesa v Gu\u00e1nice<\/h3>\n

Posledn\u00ed den v Ponce jsme str\u00e1vili v okol\u00ed such\u00e9ho lesa Gu\u00e1nica, co\u017e je prav\u00fd opak krajiny na severov\u00fdchod\u011b Portorika, kde pro zm\u011bnu najdeme tropick\u00fd de\u0161tn\u00fd les. Krajina v Gu\u00e1nice je d\u00edky nedostatku sr\u00e1\u017eek dost vysu\u0161en\u00e1 a tak tu najdeme r\u016fzn\u00e9 k\u0159ov\u00ed, kaktusy a mrtv\u00e9 stromy. Nach\u00e1z\u00ed se zde n\u011bkolik tras rozd\u00edln\u00fdch tras a n\u00e1ro\u010dnost\u00ed, my se vydali k jednomu z nejvy\u0161\u0161\u00edch bod\u016f, odkud n\u00e1m slibovali p\u011bkn\u00fd v\u00fdhled na okol\u00ed a pob\u0159e\u017e\u00ed. B\u011bhem poch\u00e1zky to kolem neust\u00e1le n\u011bkde \u0161ustilo, p\u0159es cestu n\u00e1m p\u0159eb\u00edhaly je\u0161t\u011brky a z korun strom\u016f a kaktus\u016f hv\u00edzdali r\u016fzn\u00ed pt\u00e1ci.<\/p>\n

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Pl\u00e1\u017e Tamarindo<\/h3>\n

Po dvou hodin\u00e1ch v such\u00e9 lese a na p\u0159\u00edm\u00e9m poledn\u00edm slunci p\u0159i\u0161lo vhod odpoledne na pl\u00e1\u017ei. Str\u00e1\u017ece v lese n\u00e1m poradil pl\u00e1\u017e Tamarindo, kde jsme si pak kr\u00e1sn\u011b zaplavali – voda byla klidn\u00e1 a bez vln. O pod\u00edvanou se n\u00e1m tady postarali pelik\u00e1ni, kte\u0159\u00ed se po zob\u00e1ku vrhali st\u0159emhlav do vody, takov\u00e9 kamikadze n\u00e1lety. \ud83d\ude42 Nav\u00edc na pl\u00e1\u017ei krom p\u00e1r m\u00edstn\u00edch skoro nikdo nebyl, tak\u017ee jsme si u\u017eili p\u011bkn\u00e9ho klidu p\u0159edt\u00edm, ne\u017e jsme zam\u00ed\u0159ili na ru\u0161n\u011bj\u0161\u00ed v\u00fdchodn\u00ed surfa\u0159sk\u00e9 pob\u0159e\u017e\u00ed.<\/p>\n

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Kde a co jsme jedli<\/span><\/h2>\n

El Negozio de Panchi<\/h3>\n

Na prvn\u00ed ve\u010de\u0159i n\u00e1m m\u00edstn\u00ed doporu\u010dili tuhle restauraci nach\u00e1zej\u00edc\u00ed se 10 minut autem od centra. Chlap\u00edk na parkovi\u0161ti n\u00e1m sd\u011blil, \u017ee maj\u00ed plno, ale n\u00e1m to nedalo  a \u0159ekli jsme mu, \u017ee jsme kv\u016fli t\u00e9hle restauraci p\u0159ijeli a\u017e z Belgie – a to byla mocn\u00e1 v\u011bta. \ud83d\ude42 Hned zavolal \u0161\u00e9fa, kter\u00fd n\u00e1s p\u0159iv\u00edtal s t\u00edm, \u017ee Belgii m\u00e1 moc r\u00e1d, \u017ee jezd\u00ed \u010dasto do Evropy. Chv\u00edli jsme se bavili a pak n\u00e1m improvizovan\u011b p\u0159ipravil st\u016fl na terase, kde jsme sed\u011bi o samotce. Bavil se s n\u00e1ma i d\u00e1l, ne\u017e n\u00e1m p\u0159inesli j\u00eddlo. Byl to velice kultivovan\u00fd \u010dlov\u011bk, milovn\u00edk Evropy a rozumn\u011bl evropsk\u00fdm v\u00edn\u016fm. Na jeho doporu\u010den\u00ed jsme si dali dv\u011b sklenky Ribera del Duero co m\u011bl v nab\u00eddce, a dost n\u00e1m chutnalo. Pak p\u0159inesli j\u00eddlo – m\u011b lososa ve sladkokysel\u00e9 om\u00e1\u010dce s pyr\u00e9 z juky, Sebovi n\u011bjakou m\u00edstn\u00ed rybu a pyr\u00e9 s n\u011bjak\u00fdm latinskoamerick\u00fdm bramborem a ovocem, ale jm\u00e9na v\u00e1m ne\u0159eknu. \u0160\u00e9f\u00edk se stavil je\u0161t\u011b p\u00e1rkr\u00e1t b\u011bhem j\u00eddla se zeptat, jak chutn\u00e1 a zase jsme se zakecali. Bylo to moc mil\u00e9 a j\u00eddlo vynikaj\u00edc\u00ed – takov\u00e9hle momenty pat\u0159\u00ed k t\u011bm nejhez\u010d\u00edm, co m\u00e1me se Sebem na cestov\u00e1n\u00ed r\u00e1di. <\/p>\n

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Street Food<\/h3>\n

Na hlavn\u00edm n\u00e1m\u011bst\u00ed Plaza Las Delicias jsou n\u011bjak\u00e9 poj\u00edzdn\u00e9 st\u00e1nky a v jednom n\u00e1s zaujala organizovanost a plno \u010derstv\u00e9 zeleniny, tak jsme si tam dali k ob\u011bdu jakousi tortillu pln\u011bnou t\u00edm, co si z\u00e1kazn\u00edk naporou\u010del. \u0158ekla jsem si o jednu pr\u00e1v\u011b s tou zeleninou a s\u00fdrem. Sn\u011bdli jsme si to v parku a zbyl\u00fdm chlebem krmili holuby. \ud83d\ude42 <\/p>\n

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Sabor y Rumba<\/h3>\n

Na posledn\u00ed ve\u010de\u0159i v Ponce jsme za\u0161li do t\u00e9to restaurace situovan\u00e9 v mal\u00e9m patiu, kde byl zrovna koncert n\u011bjak\u00e9 kytaristky. Bohu\u017eel tu op\u011bt nem\u011bli nic \u010dist\u011b vegetari\u00e1nsk\u00e9ho, a tak jsem si dala krokety s treskou a zeleninou. Seb neodolal a \u0161el do hamburgeru s plantejnov\u00fdmi chipsy. J\u00eddlo tu nebylo \u0161patn\u00e9 a obsluha velice pozorn\u00e1. Bylo to fajn poklidn\u00fd ve\u010der.<\/p>\n

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Kde jsme byli ubytovan\u00ed<\/span><\/h2>\n

V Ponce jsme m\u011bli zabookovan\u00e9 ubytov\u00e1n\u00ed v hotelu Belgica<\/strong> (jak jinak) :-)) situovan\u00e9ho hned u hlavn\u00edho n\u00e1m\u011bst\u00ed Las Delicias. Je to kr\u00e1sn\u00fd hot\u00fdlek a person\u00e1l byl stra\u0161n\u011b moc mil\u00fd. Jedin\u00e9, co mi vadilo, tak bylo plastov\u00e9 n\u00e1dob\u00ed u sn\u00eddan\u011b.<\/p>\n

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Tak to by bylo v\u0161echno o jihu Portorika tak, jak jsme ho stihli za\u017eili my. Dal\u0161\u00ed den n\u00e1s \u010dekal p\u0159esun do Luquillo, ale o tom a\u017e v n\u011bjak\u00e9m dal\u0161\u00edm \u010dl\u00e1nku.<\/p>\n

Byli jste n\u011bkdo v Portoriku nebo m\u011bli jste n\u011bkdo podobn\u00e9 z\u00e1\u017eitky jinde? Dejte mi v\u011bd\u011bt v koment\u00e1\u0159\u00edch pod textem! \ud83d\ude42<\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Dnes v\u00e1m uk\u00e1\u017eu dal\u0161\u00ed kus Portorika a sice m\u011bsto Ponce a jeho okol\u00ed. Nejsem schopn\u00e1 v\u0161echny fotky a z\u00e1\u017eitky vt\u011bsnat do jednoho \u010dl\u00e1nku, a tak pl\u00e1nuji je\u0161t\u011b 2-3 dal\u0161\u00ed, ale ty budou sp\u00ed\u0161e pl\u00e1\u017eov\u011b zam\u011b\u0159en\u00e9. \ud83d\ude42 Snad v\u00e1s to neotr\u00e1v\u00ed a douf\u00e1m, \u017ee n\u011bkter\u00e9 z v\u00e1s t\u00edmto na tento p\u0159ekr\u00e1sn\u00fd…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":16488,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_exactmetrics_skip_tracking":false,"_exactmetrics_sitenote_active":false,"_exactmetrics_sitenote_note":"","_exactmetrics_sitenote_category":0,"_lmt_disableupdate":"","_lmt_disable":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[4,517],"tags":[518],"class_list":["post-16374","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-cestovani","category-portoriko","tag-portoriko"],"yoast_head":"\nPonce: perla ji\u017en\u00edho Portorika - 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