{"id":15908,"date":"2017-03-27T08:00:38","date_gmt":"2017-03-27T06:00:38","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/1001voyagesgourmands.com\/?p=15908\/"},"modified":"2017-06-10T21:12:53","modified_gmt":"2017-06-10T19:12:53","slug":"alfama-foto-brouzdani-starym-lisabonem","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/1001voyagesgourmands.com\/cs\/alfama-foto-brouzdani-starym-lisabonem\/","title":{"rendered":"Rann\u00ed Alfama aneb foto-brouzd\u00e1n\u00ed star\u00fdm Lisabonem"},"content":{"rendered":"

Jedna z nejlep\u0161\u00edch zku\u0161enost\u00ed, kterou jsem v Lisabonu m\u011bla, bylo brouzd\u00e1n\u00ed se Alfamou s profesion\u00e1ln\u00edm foto-pr\u016fvodcem Miguelem z Lisbon Photo<\/strong><\/a>. Potkali jsme se brzy r\u00e1no dole u \u0159eky, odkud jsme se vydali na 4-hodinovou kulturn\u011b-fotografickou proch\u00e1zku. Miguel jako\u017eto m\u00edstn\u00ed a profesion\u00e1ln\u00ed fotograf zn\u00e1 Lisabon a jeho kr\u00e1sn\u00e1 z\u00e1kout\u00ed velice dob\u0159e, a tak jsem se s n\u00edm dostala na m\u00edsta, kter\u00e1 bych asi nikdy za svou kr\u00e1tkou dobu pobytu neobjevila.<\/p>\n

Vydali jsme se p\u0159es Baixu sm\u011brem ke katedr\u00e1le, odkud jsme pokra\u010dovali k p\u0159en\u00e1dhern\u00fdm vyhl\u00eddk\u00e1m a d\u00e1le pak dol\u016f do Alfamy. Cestou mi Miguel krom\u011b tip\u016f t\u00fdkaj\u00edc\u00edch se tajn\u00fdch z\u00e1kout\u00ed, m\u00edst k pov\u0161imnut\u00ed a \u00fahl\u016f pohledu, vypr\u00e1v\u011bl historky o m\u011bst\u011b a m\u00edstn\u00ed kultu\u0159e, ale tak\u00e9 o ka\u017edodenn\u00edm \u017eivot\u011b v t\u00e9to \u010d\u00e1sti m\u011bsta. Jeho nad\u0161en\u00ed pro svou pr\u00e1ci a m\u00edsto, kde \u017eije, bylo a\u017e nebezpe\u010dn\u011b naka\u017eliv\u00e9. A tady je v\u00fdsledek na\u0161\u00ed pr\u00e1ce a n\u011bco m\u00e1lo o Alfam\u011b\u2026<\/p>\n

\"Alfama<\/p>\n

Lisabonsk\u00e1 katedr\u00e1la (na dolej\u0161\u00ed fotce) je nejstar\u0161\u00ed c\u00edrkevn\u00ed budovou v Lisabonu. Byla postavena prvn\u00edm portugalsk\u00fdm kr\u00e1lem na z\u00e1kladech b\u00fdval\u00e9 me\u0161ity ve 12. stolet\u00ed. <\/strong>Pat\u0159\u00ed k nejd\u016fle\u017eit\u011bj\u0161\u00edm pam\u00e1tk\u00e1m jak Alfamy, tak Lisabonu.<\/p>\n

\"Alfama<\/p>\n

Najdete tu tak\u00e9 t\u0159eba vyhl\u00eddku Miradouro de Santa Luzia<\/strong>, odkud se nask\u00fdt\u00e1 kr\u00e1sn\u00fd pohled na Alfamu a kde kr\u00e1sn\u00e1 b\u00edl\u00e1 kupole Pantheonu<\/strong> lad\u00ed s pastelov\u00fdmi fas\u00e1dami dom\u016f. R\u00e1no je tu kr\u00e1sn\u00fd klid a celkem pr\u00e1zdno, nicm\u00e9n\u011b pro hezk\u00e9 fotky je lep\u0161\u00ed se zde stavit v pozdn\u00edm odpoledni – i kdy\u017e to u\u017e tu naraz\u00edte na davy lid\u00ed. Z pozdn\u00edho odpoledne je tak\u00e9 dolej\u0161\u00ed fotka.<\/p>\n

\"Alfama<\/p>\n

Naproti vyhl\u00eddce je kr\u00e1sn\u00fd blok bar\u00e1k\u016f, kter\u00fd se zrcadlil v jez\u00edrku u vyhl\u00eddky. To se prost\u011b nedalo nevyfotit…<\/p>\n

\"Alfama<\/p>\n

Celou cestu od La S\u00e9 a\u017e k vyhl\u00eddce Portas do Sol<\/strong> jsme se sna\u017eili vyfotit slavnou \u017elutou tramvaj 28<\/strong>, embl\u00e9m Lisabonu, co\u017e byl probl\u00e9m jednak proto, \u017ee hodn\u011b tramvaj\u00ed jezd\u00ed polepen\u00fdch reklamou, ale tak\u00e9 proto, \u017ee kolem p\u016fl dev\u00e1t\u00e9 ji\u017e rann\u00ed sv\u011btlo vrhalo ostr\u00e9 st\u00edny. Ale kdo si po\u010dk\u00e1, ten se do\u010dk\u00e1… \ud83d\ude42 Lisabon je tak\u00e9 pln\u00fd street art a na jedn\u00e9 zdi jsme na\u0161li mozaikov\u00fd portr\u00e9t Am\u00e1lie Rodrigues<\/strong> – slavn\u00e9 portgalsk\u00e9 fadistky. Pot\u00e9 jsme zahnuli dol\u016f z kopce, abychom se pono\u0159ili do t\u00e9 spleti klidn\u00fdch, uzounk\u00fdch a star\u00fdch uli\u010dek pozorovat zdej\u0161\u00ed \u017eivot.<\/p>\n

\"Alfama\"Alfama \"Alfama\"Vydejte<\/p>\n

Alfama je nejstar\u0161\u00ed \u010dtvrt Lisabonu. Je to sple\u0165 \u00fazk\u00fdch dl\u00e1\u017ed\u011bn\u00fdch uli\u010dek, je\u017e se t\u00e1hne od hradu Castelo de S\u00e3o Jorge a\u017e k \u0159ece Tejo. Mezi 8. a 12. stolet\u00edm tu s\u00eddlili Maurov\u00e9 a \u0161lo o chudinskou \u010dtvrt, kter\u00e1 se nach\u00e1zela za zd\u00ed m\u011bsta. Ti dali t\u00e9to \u010dtvrti nejen jm\u00e9no (jm\u00e9na Alfama poch\u00e1z\u00ed z Arab\u0161tiny – p\u016fvodn\u00ed jm\u00e9no bylo t\u00e9to \u010dtvrti bylo \u201cAlhama\u201d, <\/em>co\u017e doslova znamen\u00e1 pramen, kter\u00fd byl zde objeven), ale i tvar a strukturu. Alfama jako jedna z m\u00e1la \u010d\u00e1st\u00ed Lisabonu odolala siln\u00e9mu zem\u011bt\u0159esen\u00ed v roce 1755, a tak si dodnes z \u010d\u00e1sti zachovala svoji tehdej\u0161\u00ed tv\u00e1\u0159.<\/p>\n

To, co je na Alfam\u011b nejhez\u010d\u00ed, je fakt, \u017ee je to m\u00edsto, kde se jakoby zastavil \u010das a kde lid\u00e9 st\u00e1le \u017eij\u00ed tradi\u010dn\u00edm zp\u016fsobem \u017eivota. N\u011bkte\u0159\u00ed tu \u017eij\u00ed dokonce cel\u00fd sv\u016fj \u017eivot, a tak se zde vytvo\u0159ilo jak\u00e9si spole\u010denstv\u00ed, lid\u00e9 se spolu na ulic\u00edch bav\u00ed, vysed\u00e1vaj\u00ed v otev\u0159en\u00fdch oknech, ru\u010dn\u011b perou pr\u00e1dlo ve spole\u010dn\u00fdch pr\u00e1deln\u00e1ch, jeliko\u017e i to je pro n\u011b zp\u016fsob socializace. No a pak tu v\u0161ude vis\u00ed su\u0161\u00edc\u00ed se oble\u010den\u00ed z oken a balkon\u016f. Miguel mi \u0159\u00edkal, \u017ee se mu tady i p\u00e1rkr\u00e1t stalo, \u017ee ho m\u00edstn\u00ed pozvali i s ostatn\u00edmi fotografy k nim dom\u016f na j\u00eddlo\u2026 tohle je prost\u011b Alfama. My jsme tu byli r\u00e1no, tak\u017ee n\u00e1s nikdo na j\u00eddlo nepozval, ale za to jsme se naba\u017eili pr\u00e1zdn\u00fdch uli\u010dek a fotek bez necht\u011bn\u00fdch chodc\u016f.<\/p>\n

\"Alfama \"Alfama \"Alfama\"Alfama\"Vydejte<\/p>\n

Uzounk\u00e9 dl\u00e1\u017ed\u011bn\u00e9 uli\u010dky, schody nahor\u016f a dol\u016f, lampi\u010dky, pastelov\u011b barevn\u00e9 fas\u00e1dy zdej\u0161\u00edch domk\u016f, stromy, schnouc\u00ed pr\u00e1dlo vis\u00edc\u00ed z oken a balkon\u016f, sem tam n\u011bjak\u00e1 „keli\u0161ov\u00e1“… To je Alfama v pln\u00e9 sv\u00e9 kr\u00e1se. <\/p>\n

\"Alfama\"Alfama \"Alfama<\/p>\n

Na dolej\u0161\u00edm dome\u010dku si m\u016f\u017eeme pov\u0161imnout krabicov\u00fdch oken, kter\u00e9 mohou p\u0159ipom\u00ednat okna dom\u016f v severoafrick\u00fdch zem\u00edch. Nen\u00ed se \u010demu divit, jsou poz\u016fstatkem maursk\u00e9 architektury z d\u0159\u00edv\u011bj\u0161\u00ed doby. \u010cast\u00fdm prvkem je zde tak\u00e9 roz\u0161\u00ed\u0159en\u00ed budov prvn\u00edho patra, tak jak vid\u00edme na t\u00e9to fotce, a to proto, aby se zv\u011bt\u0161il prostor mal\u00fdch uli\u010dek.<\/p>\n

\"Alfama<\/p>\n

Miluji, kdy\u017e zjist\u00edm, \u017ee je fotografie n\u011b\u010d\u00edm zaj\u00edmav\u00e1, a\u017e kdy\u017e ji vezmu. T\u0159eba tenhle p\u00e1r na dolej\u0161\u00ed fotografii mi tady prob\u011bhl, kdy\u017e jsem \u010dekala na to, a\u017e p\u016fjdou n\u011bjac\u00ed m\u00edstn\u00ed. Jen jsem zku\u0161ebn\u011b cvakla, a to, \u017ee m\u011bli oba slad\u011bn\u00e9 boty, jsem si v\u0161imla a\u017e p\u0159i prohl\u00ed\u017een\u00ed fotek na po\u010d\u00edta\u010di. \ud83d\ude42<\/p>\n

\"Alfama<\/p>\n

V dolej\u0161\u00ed \u010d\u00e1sti Alfamy jsem si v\u0161imla n\u011bjak v\u00edce postar\u0161\u00edch \u017een. Miguel m\u011bl na to teorii, \u017ee ty \u017eeny z\u016fst\u00e1vaj\u00ed samy do vysok\u00e9ho v\u011bku, proto\u017ee ty mu\u017esk\u00e9 ut\u00fdraj\u00ed… no, ne \u017ee bych s t\u00edm souhlasila \ud83d\ude42 ale je fajn, \u017ee tu maj\u00ed takov\u00e9 spole\u010denstv\u00ed kamar\u00e1dek a nemus\u00ed sed\u011bt doma samy a \u010dekat jen z v\u00edkendu na v\u00edkend, a\u017e se dostav\u00ed vnou\u010data. <\/p>\n

\"Alfama\"Alfama\"Alfama\"Alfama\"Alfama \"Alfama\"Alfama<\/p>\n

Bohu\u017eel mnoho z m\u00edstn\u00edch um\u00edr\u00e1 a mlad\u00e9 l\u00e1k\u00e1 vidina zisku p\u0159estavbou zdej\u0161\u00edch domk\u016f na ubytovac\u00ed za\u0159\u00edzen\u00ed, \u010d\u00edm\u017e by se v budoucnu v\u00fdrazn\u011b zm\u011bnil charakter cel\u00e9 \u010dtvrti. Zat\u00edm pr\u00fd \u00fa\u0159ady reguluj\u00ed po\u010det hotel\u016f a ubytovac\u00edch za\u0159\u00edzen\u00ed na km \u010dtvere\u010dn\u00ed, ale kdo v\u00ed, co bude v budoucnu. <\/p>\n

T\u00e9m\u011b\u0159 ka\u017ed\u00fd, koho jsem v Lisabonu potkala, mi v\u00e1\u0161niv\u011b pov\u00eddal o \u010dervnov\u00fdch slavnostech Sv. Anton\u00edna (Santo Ant\u00f3nio<\/strong>), kdy se Alfama m\u011bn\u00ed v barevn\u011b vyzdoben\u00e9 a \u017eiv\u00e9 m\u00edsto s festivalovou atmosf\u00e9rou, kde to von\u00ed grilovan\u00fdmi sardinkami. M\u00edstn\u00ed si tu v uli\u010dk\u00e1ch postav\u00ed grily, na kter\u00fdch p\u0159ipravuj\u00ed \u010derstv\u00e9 sardinky, je\u017e se tu pak jed\u00ed s chlebem a pivem. Lid\u00e9 z cel\u00e9ho m\u011bsta sem pak po ve\u010derech m\u00ed\u0159\u00ed za touto dobrotou a hudebn\u00ed z\u00e1bavou. Pr\u00fd to tu m\u00e1 nezapomenutelnou atmosf\u00e9ru! Tak\u017ee pokud m\u00e1te r\u00e1di sardinky nebo podobn\u00e9 akce, napl\u00e1nujte si v\u00fdlet do Lisabonu na \u010derven! \ud83d\ude09<\/p>\n

\n

Na z\u00e1v\u011br bych r\u00e1da dodala, \u017ee nejde o jakkoli sponzorovan\u00fd \u010dl\u00e1nek, jen bych r\u00e1da doporu\u010dila Lisbon Photo v\u0161em, kdo r\u00e1di fot\u00ed a chystaj\u00ed se do Lisabonu. Miguel je profesion\u00e1l, kter\u00fd um\u00ed sv\u00e9 nad\u0161en\u00ed a zku\u0161enosti p\u0159edat ostatn\u00edm a takov\u00e9 lidi r\u00e1da doporu\u010d\u00edm. J\u00e1 si tuhle foto proch\u00e1zku dala hned na druh\u00fd den v Lisabonu, a tak se mi hodilo trochu m\u011bsto poznat s n\u011bk\u00fdm m\u00edstn\u00edm. Str\u00e1vili jsme spolu cel\u00e9 4 hodiny ve velice p\u0159\u00e1telsk\u00e9m duchu. Nav\u00edc mi Miguel dal tipy na dal\u0161\u00ed dny, co\u017e se celkem hodilo.<\/p>\n

V\u00edce informac\u00ed najdete na webu Lisbon Photo<\/strong><\/a>.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

 (Photo by Miguel Helfrich)<\/em><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\u0158ekn\u011bte mi, podnikli jste n\u011bkdy n\u011bkde podobn\u00e9 foto proch\u00e1zky? V jak\u00e9m m\u011bst\u011b se v\u00e1m nejl\u00e9pe fotilo a pro\u010d?<\/em><\/p>\n

Pokud se v\u00e1m \u010dl\u00e1nek l\u00edbil, sd\u00edlejte ho pros\u00edm na soci\u00e1ln\u00edch s\u00edt\u00edch!<\/em><\/p>\n

\"Vydejte<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Jedna z nejlep\u0161\u00edch zku\u0161enost\u00ed, kterou jsem v Lisabonu m\u011bla, bylo brouzd\u00e1n\u00ed se Alfamou s profesion\u00e1ln\u00edm foto-pr\u016fvodcem Miguelem z Lisbon Photo. Potkali jsme se brzy r\u00e1no dole u \u0159eky, odkud jsme se vydali na 4-hodinovou kulturn\u011b-fotografickou proch\u00e1zku. Miguel jako\u017eto m\u00edstn\u00ed a profesion\u00e1ln\u00ed fotograf zn\u00e1 Lisabon a jeho kr\u00e1sn\u00e1 z\u00e1kout\u00ed velice dob\u0159e,…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":16020,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_exactmetrics_skip_tracking":false,"_exactmetrics_sitenote_active":false,"_exactmetrics_sitenote_note":"","_exactmetrics_sitenote_category":0,"_lmt_disableupdate":"","_lmt_disable":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[4,513],"tags":[510,257,328],"class_list":["post-15908","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-cestovani","category-portugalsko","tag-portugalsko","tag-vikendove-vylety","tag-vylety-do-mesta"],"yoast_head":"\nRann\u00ed Alfama aneb foto-brouzd\u00e1n\u00ed star\u00fdm Lisabonem - 1001 Voyages Gourmands<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Alfama je sple\u0165 \u00fazk\u00fdch uli\u010dek a star\u00fdch dom\u016f, kde lid\u00e9 dodnes \u017eij\u00ed tradi\u010dn\u00edm zp\u016fsobem. 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