{"id":12753,"date":"2016-10-20T23:42:40","date_gmt":"2016-10-20T21:42:40","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/1001voyagesgourmands.com\/?p=12753"},"modified":"2019-02-26T18:07:38","modified_gmt":"2019-02-26T17:07:38","slug":"den-v-sucre-bolivijskem-hlavnim-meste","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/1001voyagesgourmands.com\/cs\/den-v-sucre-bolivijskem-hlavnim-meste\/","title":{"rendered":"Den v Sucre, bolivijsk\u00e9m hlavn\u00edm m\u011bst\u011b"},"content":{"rendered":"

Dneska p\u0159id\u00e1m \u010dl\u00e1nek p\u0159\u00edmo z m\u00e9ho cestovatelsk\u00e9ho den\u00edku, na\u0161kr\u00e1ban\u00fd v\u011bt\u0161inou v autobuse \u010di v letadle. Mysl\u00edm, \u017ee l\u00e9pe vystihne povahu m\u011bsta a mo\u017en\u00e1 i Bol\u00edvie jako takov\u00e9. Zaj\u00edm\u00e1 v\u00e1s, kam jsme jeli po Salaru a jak jsme str\u00e1vili p\u0159edposledn\u00ed den v Bol\u00edvii? Pokud ano, tak \u010dt\u011bte d\u00e1le. T\u011bm, kdo se t\u0159eba jednou do Bol\u00edvie chystaj\u00ed, tento \u010dl\u00e1nek t\u0159eba m\u016f\u017ee pomoci k rozhodnut\u00ed, zda za\u0159adit alespo\u0148 jeden den v Sucre na sv\u016fj pl\u00e1n. Tak\u017ee p\u0159\u00edjemn\u00e9 \u010dten\u00ed!<\/p>\n

Jen p\u00e1r fakt\u016f k tomu, pro\u010d jsme vybrali toto m\u011bsto jako dal\u0161\u00ed zast\u00e1vku na\u0161eho tripu. Inu, Sucre je pravd\u011bpodobn\u011b nejhez\u010d\u00ed m\u011bsto v Bol\u00edvii<\/strong> a barokn\u00ed perla Ji\u017en\u00ed Ameriky<\/strong>. Je to men\u0161\u00ed m\u011bsto s bohatou histori\u00ed<\/strong> a bylo to pr\u00e1v\u011b zde, kde byla roku 1825 vyhl\u00e1\u0161ena nez\u00e1vislost Bol\u00edvie<\/strong>. A tak\u00e9 jsme n\u011bkde \u010detli, \u017ee jde o ide\u00e1ln\u00ed m\u00edsto pro klidn\u00fd odpo\u010dinek<\/strong> po v\u00fdletu na Salar. A jeliko\u017e jsme m\u011bli nam\u00ed\u0159eno do Santa Cruz, odkud jsme pot\u00e9 let\u011bli zp\u011bt do Evropy, den v Sucre byla takov\u00e1 p\u0159\u00edjemn\u00e1 zast\u00e1vka, aby cesta nebyla moc dlouh\u00e1. \ud83d\ude42<\/p>\n

\"Dneska<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Cesta autobusem z Uyuni<\/h3>\n

R\u00e1no po t\u0159ech dnech str\u00e1ven\u00fdch na Bolivijsk\u00e9m Salaru<\/a><\/strong> a v oblasti Sud L\u00edpez<\/strong> <\/a>vyj\u00ed\u017ed\u00edme z Uyuni sm\u011brem hlavn\u00ed m\u011bsto Sucre, s p\u0159estupem v Potos\u00ed. B\u011bhem 3,5 hodinov\u00e9 cesty do Potos\u00ed se sna\u017e\u00edme zabavit kouk\u00e1n\u00edm z okna, ale ze za\u010d\u00e1tku n\u00e1m to moc nejde, jeliko\u017e n\u00e1m l\u00edtaj\u00ed o\u010di po domorod\u00fdch \u017een\u00e1ch tzv. cholitas<\/strong>, tradi\u010dn\u011b od\u011bn\u00fdch v dlouh\u00fdch sukn\u00edch s typick\u00fdm \u010dern\u00fdm kloboukem na hlav\u011b a dv\u011bma cop\u00e1nky z vlas\u016f. Ka\u017ed\u00e1 m\u00e1 na z\u00e1dech sv\u00e1zan\u00fd uzl\u00ed\u010dek z barevn\u00e9 deky a v n\u011bm z\u0159ejm\u011b veze vlastnoru\u010dn\u011b vyroben\u00e9 zbo\u017e\u00ed n\u011bkam na trh. P\u0159ed n\u00e1mi sed\u00ed jedna cholita, co veze z\u0159ejm\u011b n\u011bjak\u00e9 je\u0161t\u011b tepl\u00e9 salte\u00f1as (pln\u011bn\u00e9 ta\u0161ti\u010dky masem a zeleninou), jen\u017e se trochu p\u0159eb\u00edj\u00ed s jin\u00fdmi od\u00e9ry odjinud z autobusu. Autobus ob\u010das zastav\u00ed n\u011bkde mezi poli, n\u011bjak\u00e9 cholitas vystoup\u00ed a p\u0159ib\u011bhnou jin\u00e9, tak\u017ee o z\u00e1bavu je postar\u00e1no. Vedle n\u00e1s sed\u00ed prima chl\u00e1pek a po p\u00e1r minut\u00e1ch pov\u00edd\u00e1n\u00ed zjist\u00edme, \u017ee jde o \u0161vagra Lorenza, na\u0161eho pr\u016fvodce ze Salaru. Je to tu p\u0159eci jen mal\u00fd sv\u011bt.<\/p>\n

Po del\u0161\u00ed chvilce n\u00e1m to v\u0161ak ned\u00e1 a koch\u00e1me se pohledem z okna. Pou\u0161tn\u00ed krajinu toti\u017e st\u0159\u00eddaj\u00ed hory a postupn\u011b se zem za\u010d\u00edn\u00e1 zelenat, pasou se tam i n\u011bjak\u00e9 lamy. Nejednou brzd\u00edme, proto\u017ee se ob\u010das n\u011bjak\u00e9 proch\u00e1zej\u00ed i po silnici. Na\u0161t\u011bst\u00ed je silnice asfaltov\u00e1 (co\u017e v Bol\u00edvii rozhodn\u011b nen\u00ed standard), tak\u017ee m\u016f\u017eu za cesty ps\u00e1t. \ud83d\ude42<\/p>\n

\"Dneska<\/p>\n

\"Dneska<\/p>\n

\"Dneska<\/p>\n

P\u0159i p\u0159\u00edjezdu do Potos\u00ed jsou vid\u011bt doly, ve kter\u00fdch se d\u0159\u00edve t\u011b\u017eilo st\u0159\u00edbro, a m\u00edstn\u00ed byli nuceni tu otro\u010dit. Dnes jsou tyto doly hlavn\u00ed atrakc\u00ed m\u011bsta, co\u017e m\u011b nijak neinspiruje a proto v Potos\u00ed vylez\u00e1me jen na autobusov\u00e9m termin\u00e1lu. Autobus tedy zastav\u00ed na silnici a v\u0161ichni domorodci vystupuj\u00ed. Z\u016fst\u00e1v\u00e1me jen my cizinci a \u010dek\u00e1me, a\u017e doraz\u00edme na ten autobusov\u00fd termin\u00e1l, odkud m\u00e1me jet se stejnou spole\u010dnost\u00ed do Sucre. \u0158idi\u010d kamsi odch\u00e1z\u00ed, na jeho seda\u010dku si sed\u00e1 jak\u00e1si \u017eena se dv\u011bma d\u011btmi a zav\u00edr\u00e1 si dv\u00ed\u0159ka. Jdeme se j\u00ed zeptat, co bude d\u00e1l, ale vypad\u00e1 to, \u017ee v\u016fbec nerozum\u00ed ani \u0161pan\u011blsky a tv\u00e1\u0159\u00ed se, \u017ee z\u0159ejm\u011b \u010dek\u00e1 na \u0159idi\u010de, kter\u00fd ode\u0161el. Po 10 minut\u00e1ch zoufal\u00e9ho v\u00fdrazu n\u00e1m ta \u017eena ml\u010dky otev\u0159e zavazadlov\u00fd prostor a my pochop\u00edme, \u017ee autobus tedy d\u00e1l nepojede. P\u011b\u0161ky spole\u010dn\u011b najdeme autobusov\u00fd termin\u00e1l a hled\u00e1me n\u00e1\u0161 dal\u0161\u00ed autobus. \u017de n\u00e1s to po t\u00fddnu v t\u00e9hle zemi nep\u0159ekvapuje…<\/p>\n

Nakonec tedy spole\u010dn\u00fdmi silami najdeme autobus do Sucre a po dal\u0161\u00edch 4 hodin\u00e1ch j\u00edzdy vystupujeme v c\u00edli. Ujme se n\u00e1s asi 70ti let\u00fd p\u00e1n taxik\u00e1\u0159 se stejn\u011b star\u00fdm autem a za 5 Bs n\u00e1s odveze a\u017e do na\u0161eho B&B Casa Solariega<\/a><\/strong>. Jde o kr\u00e1sn\u00fd d\u016fm v koloni\u00e1ln\u00edm stylu, kde n\u00e1s v\u0159ele p\u0159iv\u00edtaj\u00ed. Ov\u0161em to je\u0161t\u011b netu\u0161\u00edme, \u017ee to je na\u0161e prvn\u00ed a posledn\u00ed v\u0159el\u00e1 interakce s m\u00edstn\u00edmi.<\/p>\n

\"Dneska<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Den v Sucre<\/h2>\n

P\u0159esn\u011bji tedy 24 hodin v Sucre, jeliko\u017e tu jsme od ve\u010dera do ve\u010dera. Po ubytov\u00e1n\u00ed se vyd\u00e1v\u00e1me do centra na j\u00eddlo a na doporu\u010den\u00ed Routarda i B&B recepce skon\u010d\u00edme v Joy Ride Caf\u00e9<\/strong><\/a>. Je to p\u011bkn\u00e1 hosp\u016fdka, kter\u00e1 o sob\u011b tvrd\u00ed, \u017ee je pravd\u011bpodobn\u011b nejlep\u0161\u00edm barem ve m\u011bst\u011b. Nu, je tu plno, ale jeden stolek se najde. Seb si d\u00e1v\u00e1 m\u00edstn\u00ed pivo Sure\u0148a<\/strong> a j\u00e1 zkou\u0161\u00edm bolivijsk\u00e9 b\u00edl\u00e9 v\u00edno Kohlberg<\/strong>, jeho\u017e \u010dervenou variantu jsem si dala na Salaru. K j\u00eddlu si d\u00e1v\u00e1m pstruha ve v\u00ednovo-ml\u00e9\u010dn\u00e9 om\u00e1\u010dce s rizotem z quinoi a Seb se tu kone\u010dn\u011b do\u010dk\u00e1v\u00e1 hranolek, kter\u00e9 nejsou nechutn\u011b nacucan\u00e9 olejem jako p\u0159edt\u00edm v\u0161ude v Bol\u00edvii. Bohu\u017eel je v baru dost temn\u00e9 osv\u011btlen\u00ed, na stole m\u00e1me sv\u00ed\u010dku, ale moc nevid\u00edme, co vlastn\u011b j\u00edme. Nicm\u00e9n\u011b d\u00e1 se to. <\/p>\n

Po ve\u010de\u0159i se je\u0161t\u011b stihneme trochu proj\u00edt kolem n\u00e1m\u011bst\u00ed\u010dka 25 de Mayo. Je to hlavn\u00ed tepna m\u011bsta, kde si lid\u00e9 d\u00e1vaj\u00ed sch\u016fzky, chod\u00ed si sem odpo\u010dinout, nebo se prost\u011b jen tak uk\u00e1zat. Kolem n\u00e1m\u011bst\u00ed se nach\u00e1z\u00ed plno kr\u00e1sn\u00fdch koloni\u00e1ln\u00edch budov, mezi nimi tak\u00e9 Casa de la Libertad<\/strong>, kde byla roku 1825 vyhl\u00e1\u0161ena nez\u00e1vislost Bol\u00edvie, a dnes je budova jednou z nejv\u00fdznamn\u011bj\u0161\u00edch historick\u00fdch pam\u00e1tek zem\u011b a najdete v n\u00ed tak\u00e9 muzeum bolivijsk\u00e9 historie. <\/p>\n

\"Dneska<\/p>\n

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Druh\u00fd den r\u00e1no hned po sn\u00eddani se vyd\u00e1v\u00e1me prohl\u00e9dnout si centrum a za\u010d\u00edn\u00e1me kostelem Iglesia San Francisco<\/strong> – je n\u00e1dhern\u00fd. Ov\u0161em nejen on, m\u00edj\u00edme plno kr\u00e1sn\u00fdch b\u00edl\u00fdch staveb. Tady n\u00e1m doch\u00e1z\u00ed, pro\u010d se Sucre \u0159\u00edk\u00e1 tak\u00e9 La Ciudad Blanca<\/em>.<\/p>\n

\"Dneska<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Pot\u00e9 se jdeme pod\u00edvat na trh (Mercado central<\/strong>), kde m\u011b jedna sta\u0159ena m\u00e1lem p\u0159et\u00e1hne ko\u0161t\u011btem, kdy\u017e si fot\u00edm jej\u00ed alfajores (p\u016fvodem argentinsk\u00e9 su\u0161enky z kuku\u0159i\u010dn\u00e9ho \u0161krobu pln\u011bn\u00e9 dulce de leche). P\u0159esto\u017ee se j\u00ed omlouv\u00e1m a vysv\u011btluji, \u017ee jsem nefot\u00edm j\u00ed, ale jej\u00ed su\u0161enky, a fo\u0165\u00e1k okam\u017eit\u011b schov\u00e1v\u00e1m, ud\u011bl\u00e1 na m\u011b hodn\u011b zl\u00fd obli\u010dej a cosi hul\u00e1k\u00e1. V\u0161ichni kolem se sm\u011bj\u00ed a \u0159\u00edkaj\u00ed, \u017ee je takov\u00e1 na ka\u017ed\u00e9ho. Nicm\u00e9n\u011b, m\u011bla jsem p\u011bkn\u011b nahn\u00e1no, jeliko\u017e byla fakt p\u0159ipraven\u00e1 ude\u0159it. \ud83d\ude00<\/p>\n

\"Dneska<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Nakonec neodol\u00e1me a d\u00e1v\u00e1me si tu i druhou sn\u00eddani. Zkou\u0161\u00edme tu jejich salte\u00f1as<\/strong>, (ta\u0161ti\u010dky pln\u011bn\u00e9 zeleninou a masem) kter\u00e9 se tu jed\u00ed b\u011bhem dopoledne a jsou nohem pln\u011bj\u0161\u00ed a chutn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed ne\u017e klasick\u00e9 empanadas. Ale d\u00e1v\u00e1 si ji jen Seb, jeliko\u017e tu nemaj\u00ed vegetari\u00e1nsk\u00e9. A tak n\u00e1s z trhu pos\u00edlaj\u00ed zkusit jedno kr\u00e1sn\u00e9 m\u00edsto – El Patio.<\/strong> Koup\u00edme si dv\u011b vegetari\u00e1nsk\u00e9 a jdeme si je sn\u00edst do parku m\u00edsto ob\u011bda – jsou \u0161\u00edlen\u011b dobr\u00fd! Nachom\u00edtne se tam jeden \u010dlov\u011bk, kter\u00fd vyb\u00edr\u00e1 ko\u0161e a hled\u00e1 n\u011bco k sn\u011bdku. Je mi ho dost l\u00edto, tak mu tu jednu zbylou je\u0161t\u011b v krabi\u010dce d\u00e1v\u00e1m. Hodn\u011b ho to zasko\u010d\u00ed, ale snad je r\u00e1d… <\/p>\n

\"Dneska<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

P\u0159ijde n\u00e1m, \u017ee lid\u00e9 v Sucr\u00e9 moc nemaj\u00ed cizince r\u00e1di. T\u00e9m\u011b\u0159 nikdo z p\u016fvodn\u00edch obyvatel, kter\u00e9 potk\u00e1v\u00e1me ve dne na ulic\u00edch, v parc\u00edch, na trhu \u010di v obchod\u011b, se na n\u00e1s neusm\u011bje a naopak odpov\u00eddaj\u00ed, \u0159eklo by se, pohrdav\u011b. Je to tak\u00e9 asi d\u00e1no ho\u0159kou vzpom\u00ednkou na minulost a zejm\u00e9na zv\u011brstva, kter\u00e1 se d\u011bla v Potos\u00ed v dolech. Dnes je Sucre p\u0159ev\u00e1\u017en\u011b m\u011bstem m\u00ed\u0161enc\u016f, leckdy „poevropanizovan\u00fdch“, zat\u00edmco p\u016fvodn\u00ed obyvatel\u00e9 byli odsnunuti na okraj. Ve dne jsme sv\u011bdky demonstrace, kde chod\u00ed s transparentem s n\u00e1pisem „Smrt rasismu a diskriminaci v Sucre a Bol\u00edvii“. Nemaj\u00ed to jednoduch\u00e9, to se mus\u00ed nechat…<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"Dneska<\/p>\n

Pot\u00e9, co se naj\u00edme, si usmysl\u00edme, \u017ee bychom dali n\u011bjak\u00e9 muzeum, ov\u0161em nenapadlo n\u00e1s, \u017ee maj\u00ed p\u0159es poledne zav\u0159eno. Je to \u0161koda, proto\u017ee t\u0159eba takov\u00e9 Museo de Etnografia y Folklore<\/strong> by m\u011b zaj\u00edmalo. A tak se cour\u00e1me uli\u010dkama Sucre a obdivujeme kr\u00e1sn\u00e9 koloni\u00e1ln\u00ed domy a b\u00edl\u00e9 kostely. Dojdeme a\u017e ke kr\u00e1sn\u011b udr\u017eovan\u00e9mu parku Simon Bol\u00edvar<\/strong>, ve kter\u00e9m najdeme malou Eiffelovu v\u011b\u017e, d\u00e1 se tu jezdit na \u0161lapadlech po takov\u00e9m \u00fazk\u00e9m kan\u00e1lku a je tu plno mlad\u00fdch zamilovan\u00fdch p\u00e1r\u016f.<\/p>\n

\"Dneska<\/p>\n

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Vrac\u00edme se zp\u011bt do centra a pozorujeme \u017eivot na n\u00e1m\u011bst\u00ed 25 de Mayo<\/strong>, tentokr\u00e1t za dne. Jak bylo \u0159e\u010deno v pr\u016fvodci, je to opravdu m\u00edsto, kam se lid\u00e9 chod\u00ed ukazovat. Kolem se proh\u00e1n\u00ed mlad\u00edci ve vytun\u011bn\u00fdch autech – kolikr\u00e1t jde o star\u00e9 rachotiny s megav\u00fdfukem a jejich majitel\u00e9 vesele p\u0159isp\u00edvaj\u00ed ke zvukov\u00e9mu zne\u010di\u0161t\u011bn\u00ed m\u011bsta a z\u0159ejm\u011b si mysl\u00ed, jak jsou cool.<\/p>\n

\"Dneska<\/p>\n

Je tu plno 6ti a\u017e 10ti let\u00fdch d\u011bt\u00ed, kter\u00e9 bu\u010f \u017eebraj\u00ed, nebo lidem \u010dist\u00ed boty. V\u011bt\u0161inou jde o d\u011bti, kter\u00e9 \u010dichaj\u00ed – je to v\u00e1\u017en\u011b smutn\u00fd… P\u0159esto\u017ee v Bol\u00edvii existuj\u00ed centra, kter\u00e1 se o d\u011bti ulice sna\u017e\u00ed n\u011bjak postarat, jak d\u011bti jednou p\u0159i\u010dichnou k \u017eivotu na ulici, tak se t\u011b\u017eko se u\u010d\u00ed norm\u00e1ln\u00edmu \u017eivotu. <\/p>\n

\"Dneska<\/p>\n

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Odpoledne se vyd\u00e1v\u00e1me stoupaj\u00edc\u00ed ulic\u00ed Grau na kopec, kde je k vid\u011bn\u00ed kr\u00e1sn\u00fd franti\u0161k\u00e1nsk\u00fd kl\u00e1\u0161ter La Recoleta <\/strong>s p\u0159en\u00e1dhern\u00fdmi zahradami.<\/p>\n

\"Dneska<\/p>\n

Coby kamenem dohodil je mirador<\/strong>, odkud je kr\u00e1sn\u00fd pohled na m\u011bsto. Po n\u00e1m\u011bst\u00ed se tu proh\u00e1n\u00ed pejsci, kte\u0159\u00ed se perou o kus kartonu, kter\u00fd m\u00e1 jeden v hub\u011b. Odchytne n\u00e1s tu n\u011bjak\u00fd Argentinec prod\u00e1vaj\u00edc\u00ed ru\u010dn\u011b d\u011blanou bi\u017euterii a \u0159\u00edk\u00e1 n\u00e1m, \u017ee psy tu moc lid\u00ed nem\u00e1 r\u00e1do, jsou \u010dasto na ulic\u00edch a \u017eiv\u00ed se odpadky. To u\u017e jsme si za\u017eili v Copacaban\u011b, ale stejn\u011b mi to po\u0159\u00e1d trh\u00e1 srdce. Hned bych si n\u011bjak\u00e9ho vzala, kdybych mohla. \ud83d\ude41<\/p>\n

\"Dneska<\/p>\n

T\u011bsn\u011b pod vyhl\u00eddkou je caf\u00e9 Gourmet Mirador<\/strong>, kde maj\u00ed v\u00fdborn\u00e9 dom\u00e1c\u00ed ovocn\u00e9 d\u017eusy. M\u016f\u017eete si tu dokonce nechat nam\u00edchat ten sv\u016fj ze t\u0159\u00ed vybran\u00fdch druh\u016f ovoce. Krom\u011b pit\u00ed tu maj\u00ed i j\u00eddlo a dezerty, dokonce i vegetari\u00e1nskou stravu! Je to tu d\u011blan\u00e9 p\u0159ev\u00e1\u017en\u011b pro turisty, ov\u0161em to posezen\u00ed s v\u00fdhledem je hodn\u011b p\u0159\u00edjemn\u00e9.<\/p>\n

\"Dneska<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

V pozdn\u00edm odpoledni se vrac\u00edme pro v\u011bci do na\u0161eho B&B a objedn\u00e1v\u00e1me si tax\u00edka na leti\u0161t\u011b, odkud let\u00edme do Santa Cruz. P\u0159ijede takov\u00fd kor\u00e1b ze 70. let s kompletn\u011b rozma\u0161\u00edrovan\u00fdm zadn\u00edm ok\u00e9nkem, kter\u00e9 je v\u0161ak dokonale slepen\u00e9 p\u00e1skou. \ud83d\ude42 Je\u0161t\u011b si u\u017e\u00edv\u00e1me posledn\u00edmi dou\u0161ky Sucre z oken auta, a za\u010d\u00edn\u00e1me si uv\u011bdomovat, \u017ee poz\u00edt\u0159\u00ed na\u0161e cesta Bol\u00edvi\u00ed kon\u010d\u00ed.<\/p>\n

Den v Sucre rozhodn\u011b st\u00e1l za to. Je to kr\u00e1sn\u00e9 m\u011bsto bohat\u00e9 jak architektonicky, tak historicky. Klima je tu po cel\u00fd rok p\u0159\u00edjemn\u00e9 a atmosf\u00e9ra je tu poklidn\u00e1. Je to zas trochu jin\u00e1 tv\u00e1\u0159 Bol\u00edvie a tak ka\u017ed\u00e9mu, kdo se do t\u00e9to zem\u011b chyst\u00e1, tohle m\u011bsto doporu\u010duju, alespo\u0148 jako zast\u00e1vku na jeden, dva dny. <\/p>\n

Byli jste n\u011bkdo v Bol\u00edvii? Zaj\u00edmalo by m\u011b, jak\u00e9 m\u011bsto v\u00e1s tam nejv\u00edce zaujalo?<\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Dneska p\u0159id\u00e1m \u010dl\u00e1nek p\u0159\u00edmo z m\u00e9ho cestovatelsk\u00e9ho den\u00edku, na\u0161kr\u00e1ban\u00fd v\u011bt\u0161inou v autobuse \u010di v letadle. Mysl\u00edm, \u017ee l\u00e9pe vystihne povahu m\u011bsta a mo\u017en\u00e1 i Bol\u00edvie jako takov\u00e9. Zaj\u00edm\u00e1 v\u00e1s, kam jsme jeli po Salaru a jak jsme str\u00e1vili p\u0159edposledn\u00ed den v Bol\u00edvii? Pokud ano, tak \u010dt\u011bte d\u00e1le. T\u011bm, kdo se…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":23966,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_exactmetrics_skip_tracking":false,"_exactmetrics_sitenote_active":false,"_exactmetrics_sitenote_note":"","_exactmetrics_sitenote_category":0,"_lmt_disableupdate":"","_lmt_disable":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[389,4],"tags":[390,376],"class_list":["post-12753","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-bolivie","category-cestovani","tag-bolivie","tag-jizni-amerika"],"yoast_head":"\nDen v Sucre, bolivijsk\u00e9m hlavn\u00edm m\u011bst\u011b - 1001 Voyages Gourmands<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Dneska p\u0159id\u00e1m \u010dl\u00e1nek p\u0159\u00edmo z m\u00e9ho cestovatelsk\u00e9ho den\u00edku o tom, jak jsme str\u00e1vili den v Sucre, nejkr\u00e1sn\u011bj\u0161\u00edm m\u011bst\u011b Bol\u00edvie a co jsme tu vid\u011bli. 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